In Search of Blossom Hill

Discovering the Napa and Senoma regions on a wine tasting tour is an easy day trip from San Francisco.

Tourists have a range of options including a wine train trip, large coach tours, private tours in a limo and small group tours. The large coach trips sound horrendous. Sixty people on a coach visiting a limited range of vineyards and getting sloshed on Californian plonk. Not my idea of a good day out. The private trip in a limo seems an odd way to do a wine tasting trip. The train option didn’t really appeal either, it offers the opportunity to see lots from the train, but the chance to experience where you are visiting is limited.

To my mind the small group tour offers by far the best option, allowing interaction with other tourists, the guide and offering an opportunity to influence the vineyards visited. Choose the right trip and you can also include a gourmet meal. We were lucky to have a foodie couple on the trip, restaurateurs from Canada. They were fans of Gordon Ramsey. I sang the praises of Nigel Slater and made some book recommendations to them.

The vineyard which we will remember most was Arger-Martucci. The wine was good, but what really made it was the host. If you were to invent someone to do this sort of job, you’d be hard pressed to do better than this guy. He had a sardonic disarming wit and described each of the six wines he served with enthusiasm and knowledge. He also served the most delicious olive bread to go with the wine.
http://www.arger-martucci.com/arger-martucci/index.jsp

As well as including visits to several vineyards, the trip we chose included lunch at The Brix in the Napa Valley. This was without doubt the food highlight of the whole holiday. The Brix is in an idyllic setting, the service is attentive without being oppressive and the food sublime. Surprisingly the usually reliable Trip Advisor has mixed reviews about this place.
http://www.brix.com/

We were amused that no one we spoke to knew about Blossom Hill, a characterless Californian blend which is ubiquitous in the UK. Our guide said that lots of people from the UK mentioned this wine, but he hadn’t got a clue where it came from. I guess it is the leftovers from various vineyards, blended together by the guiding principle of not offending anyone’s taste buds and sold to UK pub chains and supermarkets.

The Napa and Senoma lack the dramatic beauty of somewhere like Paarl and Stellenbosch in South Africa, but this was a great way to spend a day enjoying a tipple, some great food and meeting some interesting people. We used Extranomical Tours and I recommend them to others.
http://www.extranomical.com/HTML_PAGES/WINE_COUNTRY_LOVERS_ITINERARY.htm

The Royalty of Jazz are at the Rrazz

I get regular emails from the Rrazz Room, a jazz venue in Hotel Nikko on Mason Street, San Francisco (just a few blocks from Union Square).
I see that Cleo Laine and John Dankworth are performing there for the next few days. It was a great pleasure to see them at the same venue last year. The years have done nothing to curb their enthusiasm and enjoyment of performing.
The most memorable song was of all things 'Tea for Two'. As a general rule, I really dislike this song, but Cleo made it sound good.
The Rrazz Room isn't my favourite jazz venue and is somewhat lacking in atmosphere, but this pair of octogenarians liven up anywhere.

What future for Blackpool?

Blackpool is a bit like marmite, you either love it or hate it. In my early childhood we went to various coastal resorts in England. I have happy memories of Scarborough and Margate. One year we went to Blackpool. I insisted because I saw it as the iconic seaside resort. I remember the rain, not been allowed on some of the rides at the theme park (too dangerous and they would make me sick) and the Tower.

Times change and in my later childhood we went to Greece or Spain. In recent years Blackpool has become a place to go for a short break, a day out or a conference. I was last there for an afternoon and went on 'The Big One', a roller coaster ride. I was terrified, but determined to finally go on one of those rides that were out of bounds to me as a child. It was good fun. My brother takes his daugthers for short breaks sometimes and they love it.

In some respects Blackpool is great, but in too many respects it isn't. I have felt a great sense of nostalgia when visiting as an adult. There lies the problem because it just hasn't changed with the times. Recently Pontins announced they were closing, because of plummeting numbers.

In recent years the conference trade has provided some revenue, but now even that seems to be going. In any given year the Tories, Labour, the Lib Dems or the TUC provided some trade. Not this year. The conference season has begun with the TUC in Liverpool, the Lib Dems are off to Bournemouth, Labour to Brighton and the Tories are in Manchester.

Northern towns are now the destination of choice for big conferences in the north rather than Blackpool.

The Super Casino idea seemed to offer possible saviour, but that doesn't seem to be on the agenda any more.

The only trade left seems to be stag parties, birthday parties and short breaks.

I have never stayed in really good accomodation in Blackpool and some has been appaling, so it isn't hard to see why it is in decline. It is a shame though, that this once great playground can't keep the best of what it once had and that it hasn't devoloped to meet the needs and aspirations of modern travellers.

A walk around Pacific Heights

Pacific Heights is home to some of the wealthiest people in San Francisco. At the lower end of the market there are homes costing a few million dollars, at the uppper end you're talking many tens of million dollars. Residents include wealthy business people, lawyers and celebrities.

It is interesting to walk around, look at the homes, enjoy the public parks and take in the views of the ocean.

Some streets in the area are enclaves for the mega mega rich, but the area is more varied than its image suggests and it does include some more 'modest' homes. 'Modest' needs heavy qualification and means the merely large rather than palatial.

As we walked along we were amused to be asked the way by someone. We wondered whether we looked like millionaires or domestics?

It is possible to go through the area on a tour bus, but it is limited to a certain route. Do it on foot it is much more fun.

Premium flying at reduced prices: well sometimes

Up until recently I was feeling very pleased with my record of flying in the comfy seats at less than many fellow passengers were paying.


In the space of a few years I have become known as Mr Upgrade to some of my friends.


First there was an upgrade from premium economy to business class on a flight with Virgin. This came out of the blue, no pressuring the nice woman (she was a woman) on the desk about availability up at the front, it was just offerred.


Then came the best and most memorable upgrade, from business to first with South African Airways. It was all the more enjoyable because we nearly missed the flight altogether. Our lateness had caused a mix up on a very busy flight and we arrived at our allocated seats to find someone sitting in them. It was a young couple who were very much in love (and making it obvious to everyone's annoyance). They were offered an upgrade to first class if they moved, but told they would not be able to sit right next to each other. Just as I was thinking why didn't you ask us, they declined, because they could't bear to disintagle themselves from oneanother. We were asked the same question and we calmy replied that we would accept. I wanted to cartwheel all the way to first class and this was before the copious amounts of champagne.


Last year there was a price war between Virgin and BA. I got a third off the price of a normal ticket. I was able to do this because I had noticed that periodically airlines have sales drive and drastically reduce prices for a limited period and kept a look out.


The next big trip is to South Africa and Zambia with a friend. We decided to book the time off work and wait for a sale. The sale came a few weeks ago. Not quite as good as we would have liked, but we booked. A few days later the sale improved. Arrrrrgh. So annoying.


The lesson is be as flexible as you can about when you travel and keep watching those prices. By doing this it is possible to have a reasonably good understanding of how low prices can fall for your chosen route and come to a judgement about whther it is a good time to buy your ticket. I knew tickets were likely to come down further, but we were keen to book.


Part of me says put this occasion into context, the other that I really should have known better.

China Town, San Francisco - Best enjoyed with Linda Lee

Many cities across the world have a China Town. San Francisco has one of the larger ones, it can be easily explored and is safe, but it is much more instructive with a good guide.

We were lucky to have Linda Lee, a Chinese American who really understands the Chinese community and China Town. She runs a tour called 'All About China Town', meets you at a prominant point and takes you on a walking tour in a small group. She runs trips for tourists and school groups.

Her experience of dealing with silly children was an asset. One of the people in our group had a short attention span and was showing off by trying to make smart comments at Linda's expense. The deftness with which she dealt with him was a joy to behold and almost worth the price of the tour in itself.

On the tour you see where many people in the Chinese community learn, worship, meet, shop and live. You learn about the history of the Chinese people in San Francisco and how they live today. The tour is authentic and gives as good a feel for the 'real China Town', as is realistic to expect on a short trip.

Some may find certain parts of the trip too authentic. The visit to the fresh food store, selling live frogs, fish and poultry was an eye-opener and definately not something for the faint-hearted. But you get plenty of warning and and can of course opt out of this particular option.

A food shop everyone will enjoy seeing is the fortune cookie factory. I'd always wondered how they got the message inside the batter and now I know because I have seen it done. Nimble fingers and manual dexterity are a plus. Not sure about the hygiene standards though.

A delicious way to end the trip is to enjoy some Dim Sum. Follow Linda's recommendation and you won't go wrong.

You can find out more about the trip on http://www.allaboutchinatown.com/

The Horta Museum, Brussels - You really ought to go

Victor Horta (1861-1945) was the foremost Art Nouveau architect in Belgium in the early part of the twentieth century. The Horta Museum was his home and studio from about 1900 to 1915 and is a wonderful showcase of his vision and ingenuity.

The house is on grand, rather than stately proportions. The centrepiece is a magnificant staircase which has a breathtaking sinuous brass work. At the top of the stairs a glazed ceiling allows in just the right amount of light.

The attention to detail everywhere is amazing, even down to door knobs and switches. Everything is beautiful and even the practical parts of the house, like the urinal in the first floor bedroom, are a design feature.

The house is a bit off the beaten track. The staff are unfriendly and make you feel as though they are doing you a favour by letting you visit. Oh and there is a strictly enforced no photography rule. These annoyances detract from a visit rather than ruin it though. This place is a must for lovers of Art Nouveau and should be a high priority for anyone with an interest in design, architecture or historic buildings.

The website doesn't do the place justice http://www.hortamuseum.be/main.php?lang=en&part=musee&page=informations

I'd add some pictures, but the website says no and (having met the guides) I would't dare defy the custodians of this great house.

In praise of Kyle Shepherd

Kyle Shepherd is a young South African jazz pianist from Cape Town. I love his brand of South African Jazz and I think he is hugely talented.

http://www.kyleshepherd.co.za/

He produced his first CD, ‘fineART’ (not a typo) at the beginning of 2009 and the more I listen to it the more I like it. I took the CD round to some friends recently when they cooked me dinner. One of them is a real music buff (some would say music snob) and he was really impressed, which is high praise indeed.

Most of Kyle Shepherd’s concerts have been in South Africa, but he has done a few in Europe as well. I notice he is due to play in Ghent and Amsterdam later this month. Pity he isn’t doing the UK as well.

The good news is that a new album ‘A Portrait of Home’ is due at the end of the year.

Check him out on his web site

A few days in London

I am back in Sheffield after a few days in London, where I have been catching up with friends and family.

The 8.27 train from Sheffield to London on Friday was fairly empty, which is always a good start. I stayed close to St James’ Park. Before seeing anyone I did a bit of clothes shopping on Kings Road then wandered along to Hyde Park where I enjoyed a glass of wine in the Serpentine Bar. Nice relaxed atmosphere and mixture of Londoners and tourists. Shame about the nasty weather (I got rained on while walking along Eaton Square), but at least the sunset in Hyde Park was pleasing. It was amusing to see some members of staff clicking away while I was taking my own pictures. Maybe they are foreign students. More rain as I leave Victoria Station. Dinner was Jugged Hare Pie at the Jugged Hare on Vauxhall Bridge Road, one of my favourite pubs for food in London. Nothing fancy, but always very good. The pub was once a bank and combines a vague air of grandeur with a laid back feel. The clientele is a real mix of people, occasional and regular visitors, tourists with a sense of adventure, and in the early evening, some civil servants from the Home Office and Ministry of Justice.



The first part of Saturday I went over to Leigh-on Sea to share happy memories of a dear friend with her parents and brother. We had some lunch and visited her grave. It is desperately sad that she died so young and her absence will always leave a gap. On a happier note I meet some friends in Brentwood. We had a short walk in a nearby park and later go for a Chinese meal. Back to central London feeling quite tired.

On Sunday I visit my friend Stewart and his partner Lydia. They have a brand new flat near Richmond, very stylish. We popped into Kingston and then went to central London. After taking in an Indian art exhibition at the British Museum, we decided it was time for a drink. The Bedford and Strand was our intended haunt, but it is closed for refurbishment. We find somewhere else nearby and then decide to go to Kuttners, a retro Champagne Bar on Romily Street. It feels as though we have stepped back at least three decades with the decor and furniture. Even the champagne glasses were those wide short glasses which no one uses any more, fine for serving ice cream in, but not ideal for Champagne. That said I like the bar because it is unusual and would go back. We were in need of food so went into a Thai place we found on Charing Cross Road. Just okay. Time was unkind to us and Lydia and Stewart had to rush off to catch the last train.

Monday was time with the family, my older brother his wife, his oldest and pregnant daughter and her husband. I met them at Waterloo and we walked to the London Eye to collect some tickets we had ordered. We took lots of pictures on the South Bank and looked every bit tourists (are we?). The promised sunshine comes out before we board the London Eye. Great views of the City, Canary Wharf and of course the Houses of Parliament. We spent the rest of the day enjoying three of London’s Parks. We had a picnic in St James’ Park. I love the views from the bridge, the Palace in one direction and Whitehall in the other. After lunch we walked to the Palace then to Green Park. There are some fabulous buildings overlooking the park, but also some extremely ugly developments. It would never have been allowed in Paris. Our day ended in Hyde Park. The weather was fabulous and the day even better. We shared stories from the past, teased one another and took sheer enjoyment from just being together.