The Sheraton, Nha Trang, Vietnam.

The Sheraton in Nha Trang was the base for the beach part of a recent holiday to Vietnam. We wanted something which combined good service and modern amenities, but did not totally cut us off from the place we were visiting. We considered alternatives such as the Novotel (not as luxurious) and also self contained resorts such as the Evason Ana Mandara Six Senses Hidaway and Vinpearl Resort and Spa (both a little cut off from the main town and they get hit and miss reviews on Trip Advisor). The Sheraton opened in March and has all the hallmarks which make Sheraton one of my favourite hotel brands. In my view this is definitely the best choice in Nha Trang regardless of whether the trip is a holiday or business trip.

The public areas are clean, light, luxurious and spacious. I love the design touches which in places make the hotel have the feel of being in an art gallery. The staff strike just the right balance between attentiveness, friendliness and professionalism. The breakfast offerings are wide ranging to suit Vietnamese and international palates. You could get anything from fish soup and noodles to bacon and egg. We tried most of what was on offer during our four night stay and on the whole the standard was good. Where it did fall down it was as much to do with the pitfalls of mass catering and food lying around a bit, as it was to do with using poor ingredients or poor cooking. The pools ( a main pool, paddling pool and plunge pool) are on the sixth floor. The main infinity pool looks stunning and has great views of the ocean and mountains. On the seventh floor there are gym facilities, a sauna, steam room and jacuzzi. These facilities were fine as they go, but the jacuzzi was so large that it felt a bit more like a paddling pool with water pumped in around the edges.

There are three main levels of room, and the ones on the Starwood Preferred Guest floor (the middle level of room) offered a high standard, it was spacious and luxurious with all the nice touches you expect plus a few more, we liked the open bathroom with privacy screen, which means you can enjoy great ocean views while having a bath. Access to the beach is across a busy road, but staff usher you across safely. During the day a small section of the beach across from the hotel is sectioned off and has loungers, towels and someone on hand to get you a drink or some food.

The big benefit of the location is that guests are not cut off from the rest of Nha Trang and local restaurants and shops are just a short stroll away. It is worth exploring a little as some of the local restaurants provide great offerings at amazingly low prices. Venture a little further and you can sample ‘street food’ and see a little more of the resort. People have been coming to Nha Trang for many years and it caters for all budgets and travel styles. The more expensive hotels are a more recent addition, but there are plenty of mid-range and backpacker options. The negative part of the location is that the main road is very busy and there is lots of building work going on in this part of Nha Trang. The sound of horns and building work can be heard from the pool area and when the balcony doors of your room are open. The ocean view is lovely, but look along the road and you see lots of building work. Although this is a well established resort, it is undergoing a lot of change mainly in the form of large hotels and plush apartments. This is particularly the case on the stretch of the road next to the Sheraton.

The prices at the hotel are on a par with those for similar types of hotel anywhere in the world. In some respects that is fine, but it seems so much more when you compare the price of food and drink at local restaurants. A slight annoyance was those little extras which were added onto the bill and were not immediately apparent at the time of booking.

All things considered the Sheraton in Nha Trang is a great base and most of the negatives are as much to do with the annoyances of staying in a resort which is undergoing change as they are to do with the hotel or the staff.

Hanoi, Vietnam

Hanoi was the start and end point of a recent trip to Vietnam. It is a bustling capital city of a developing country which is undergoing change. The city has distinct quarters and during this short visit it wasn’t possible to explore all of them. There are modern developments of the type seen in major cities around the world, but also plenty to see which reflects the culture and history of Vietnam. A water puppet show is a must for any visitor regardless of their age. Water puppetry involves the puppeteers standing in a pool of water and working puppets on rods from behind a bamboo screen. Most of the scenes are rich in symbolism and are performed to traditional music. The Museum of Fine Art was also a rewarding experience. It offers an extremely well put together collection of Vietnamese paintings and sculptures and is just the right size to take in over a couple hours. It was not possible to visit the Ho Chi Min Museum as it was closed, which is a great regret as it is reputed to offer an excellent overview of Vietnam’s history as well as being about one of its foremost leaders.

It isn’t just the sites which make a city, but the feel and the vibe. To the uninitiated Hanoi and other busy Vietnamese cities can be daunting. The traffic (predominantly motorcycles) is non-stop. The rules for crossing the road are very different from the ones I’m used to. You find a crossing, but unless it has traffic lights, you don’t wait for the traffic to stop, you just weave your way through and the drivers just drive around you. The same principle applies to driving. You just point your vehicle in the direction you want to go, look out for others and make your way to where you want to go. It sounds crazy, but works, because everyone observes the same set of ‘rules’.

Eating out in Hanoi and other major cities is far from bland and there are plenty of options. The large cities have the ubiquitous fast-food restaurant chains seen in many big cities, but there are plenty of other options. Most international food seems to be available at restaurants in the larger hotel chains. For many middle-class people, eating out is at a family run restaurant serving a range of Vietnamese food. A particularly memorable meal at such a restaurant was a goose feast, every conceivable part of the goose was cooked in a variety of different ways. A speciality and favourite of mine was a hot pot dish, here a pot of stock is placed on a burner in the centre of your table and it is surrounded with your chosen ingredients, usually a selection of fish, or type of meat along with seasonal vegetables. You cook the food as you want to eat it. The quickest and cheapest option is to buy food from the many street vendors, who specialise in just a few dishes or maybe even a single dish. They often operate with minimal equipment, a burner, a pot and a collection of tiny mobile tables and stools. The food from these sellers is often delicious, though it is a case of the buyer using their judgement about the freshness of the food and hygiene standards. Shopping is a similar experience to eating, there are some of the large international brands available in Hanoi, but not on the scale as in more developed cities. It is more common to find small independent retailers who either specialise in a single type of item or sell a wide range of goods. It was noticeable that even on the outskirts of the city there seem to be rows of shops everywhere. More modern shopping malls have arrived, but are not plentiful.

Vietnamese people are welcoming, warm and friendly. The spirit was summed up by events on National Day, which falls on September 2 and is when Vietnam celebrates its Independence from France. Huge crowds gathered in the centre of Hanoi to enjoy street entertainment and a massive firework display. It was a happy peaceful event and lacked the sort of tension that can mar such occasions. It was a great way to spend the last night of a memorable holiday.

Water puppets

Street food

A typical cafe

Flags out for National Day

Yorkshire Airlines

A friend and fellow Yorkshireman posted this on his Facebook page recently. It made me chuckle.

Township visits

Most visitors to Cape Town only see the townships as they arrive and depart from the airport. It isn’t very sensible to go there on your own, but it is safe and interesting to go on an organised visit. Some people are put off the idea thinking its like treating local residents as curiosities, but I think it comes down to the way the visit is organised. There are a number of operators who provide a range of tours that are run by people who live in the townships, so the money they make directly benefits the local area, which has to be a good thing. Reputable tours typically include visits to a range of community projects, a market and a bar. You can also organise evening visits which include a music venue and meal. You can even stay in a house in a township for part of your stay. Notionally you book into Vicky’s B&B, but as she only has two rooms, she may be full, so will put you in touch with a network of other people who offer a similar service. It is a world away from the Cape Town most people visit, but worth doing if you like to get a feel what it is like to live in a township. Sometimes this sort of thing can be a bit phoney, but done properly a township trip can be informative and have a real benefit for the local community you are visiting. For more information about Vicky’s B&B follow this link http://www.vickysbedandbreakfast.com/

A symbol of hope

This is a travel blog and not a politics blog, but I just had to include these pictures, which would not have been possible in South Africa's recent past and offer hope for its future. They were taken on the beach at Camps Bay.

Steenberg wine estate, Constantia Valley

The Steenberg wine estate in Constantia Valley, is just a short drive from Cape Town and not far from the slopes of Table Mountain. It is away from the main Cape Winelands tourist route, but an easy visit if you have a car or a driver/ guide. You can go there and combine a visit to Kirstenbosch Botanical gardens in half a day, leaving Cape Town after breakfast and getting back late afternoon. Everything at Steenberg is beautiful and stylish. The vineyard also has a high end hotel and spa next to it, never been there, but it rates highly on Trip Advisor. There is also a restaurant in the main vineyard. I made sure I wasn’t driving for this vineyard visit, so got to do the tasting. Previously I had only had the Sauvignon Blanc, which I love and was keen to see if the rest of the range was of the same standard. I am pleased to say that it was and particularly recommend the Merlot 2007.

Cape Winelands - Franschheok, Stellenbosch and Paarl: much more to them than wine

It isn’t hard to see why Franschheok, Stellenbosh and Paarl are the part of the Cape wine region most tourists visit. It must be one of the most beautiful wine regions in the world. You can enjoy the highlights on a day trip or do things at a more leisurely pace and base yourself in the area for part of your holiday. There are a wide range of accommodation types from hugely expensive (we are talking four figures a night) to cheap and simple. You also get plenty of fine dining opportunities, especially in the Franschheok area, which has some of the country’s best restaurants. Paarl is the largest town in the Cape Winelands and boasts a huge granite outcrop. Stellenbosch is a University town so is more vibrant and youthful, where as Franschheok is pretty and quaint. Much of the area has French connections and as its name suggests Franschheok (French corner) has strongest links with France. French Huguenots established vineyards here in the seventeenth century and they were welcomed by the Dutch who gave them land rights. When I think of this part of the Western Cape, I think of big blue skies, dramatic mountain backdrops, Cape Dutch architecture and of course wine.

Companies such as Day Trippers organise a small group trip, which means there are about eight of you in a mini-van http://www.daytrippers.co.za/ . This is good value and good fun. You have some scope to influence where you go, get a chance to share travel tales with others and sharing the trip with them cuts costs. On a couple of occasions I have been the designated driver for DIY trips, so visited vineyards but not tasted; even though I love the grape, I still enjoyed the day. If you want to visit particular vineyards and no one wants to miss out on the tasting, then hire a driver for the day. Although more expensive than the group trips, it represents good value for what you get and means you have total control over where to go. I would organise this through Randy’s a thoroughly professional outfit who specialise in airport transfers and private tours http://www.randystours.com/index.html.

My favourite vineyard visits in this area include:

Villiera http://www.villiera.com/ which isn’t as pretty as some other vineyards, but has a fabulous range of Methode Cape Classique wine (this uses Champagne technique to produce some great fizz).

Graham Beck http://www.grahambeckwines.co.za/ also does some great bubbly and the range of wine in general is consistently good.

Fairview http://www.fairview.co.za/ is a highly commercial operation and attracts lots of tourists with its gift shop, cheeses, eatery and goat herd.

Solms-Delta http://www.solms-delta.co.za/ is of interest as it has a strong community empowerment focus and interesting museum, they produce a red fizzy wine called Cape Jazz Shiraz, not a fine wine, but a fun one and a great choice to quaff at a braai (South African barbecue).

A typical view

Huguenot memorial at Franschhoek

Offerings from Graham Beck

Resident goats at Fairview