Hanoi, Vietnam

Hanoi was the start and end point of a recent trip to Vietnam. It is a bustling capital city of a developing country which is undergoing change. The city has distinct quarters and during this short visit it wasn’t possible to explore all of them. There are modern developments of the type seen in major cities around the world, but also plenty to see which reflects the culture and history of Vietnam. A water puppet show is a must for any visitor regardless of their age. Water puppetry involves the puppeteers standing in a pool of water and working puppets on rods from behind a bamboo screen. Most of the scenes are rich in symbolism and are performed to traditional music. The Museum of Fine Art was also a rewarding experience. It offers an extremely well put together collection of Vietnamese paintings and sculptures and is just the right size to take in over a couple hours. It was not possible to visit the Ho Chi Min Museum as it was closed, which is a great regret as it is reputed to offer an excellent overview of Vietnam’s history as well as being about one of its foremost leaders.

It isn’t just the sites which make a city, but the feel and the vibe. To the uninitiated Hanoi and other busy Vietnamese cities can be daunting. The traffic (predominantly motorcycles) is non-stop. The rules for crossing the road are very different from the ones I’m used to. You find a crossing, but unless it has traffic lights, you don’t wait for the traffic to stop, you just weave your way through and the drivers just drive around you. The same principle applies to driving. You just point your vehicle in the direction you want to go, look out for others and make your way to where you want to go. It sounds crazy, but works, because everyone observes the same set of ‘rules’.

Eating out in Hanoi and other major cities is far from bland and there are plenty of options. The large cities have the ubiquitous fast-food restaurant chains seen in many big cities, but there are plenty of other options. Most international food seems to be available at restaurants in the larger hotel chains. For many middle-class people, eating out is at a family run restaurant serving a range of Vietnamese food. A particularly memorable meal at such a restaurant was a goose feast, every conceivable part of the goose was cooked in a variety of different ways. A speciality and favourite of mine was a hot pot dish, here a pot of stock is placed on a burner in the centre of your table and it is surrounded with your chosen ingredients, usually a selection of fish, or type of meat along with seasonal vegetables. You cook the food as you want to eat it. The quickest and cheapest option is to buy food from the many street vendors, who specialise in just a few dishes or maybe even a single dish. They often operate with minimal equipment, a burner, a pot and a collection of tiny mobile tables and stools. The food from these sellers is often delicious, though it is a case of the buyer using their judgement about the freshness of the food and hygiene standards. Shopping is a similar experience to eating, there are some of the large international brands available in Hanoi, but not on the scale as in more developed cities. It is more common to find small independent retailers who either specialise in a single type of item or sell a wide range of goods. It was noticeable that even on the outskirts of the city there seem to be rows of shops everywhere. More modern shopping malls have arrived, but are not plentiful.

Vietnamese people are welcoming, warm and friendly. The spirit was summed up by events on National Day, which falls on September 2 and is when Vietnam celebrates its Independence from France. Huge crowds gathered in the centre of Hanoi to enjoy street entertainment and a massive firework display. It was a happy peaceful event and lacked the sort of tension that can mar such occasions. It was a great way to spend the last night of a memorable holiday.

Water puppets

Street food

A typical cafe

Flags out for National Day