A Sri Lankan Safari

The Yala Safari Lodge is a comfortable resort style hotel. There is a good pool area near a main building which houses a bar and restaurant. The rooms are in a series single and two story chalets spread across the grounds. You have a good sized room, bathroom and personal seating area. The decor has a strong ‘safari’ theme. The sea is just a short stroll in one direction and a lagoon in the other.

Much thought has gone into minimising the environmental impact of the development. As you walk round the grounds you may well see the abundant wildlife, don’t be surprised if the odd monitor lizard (they are several feet in length) crosses your path. In the interests of the wildlife and the guests’ safety, journeys back to the hotel room are accompanied by hotel staff after dark.

The hotel is in the Yala Safari Park boundary, so game drives are easy. The trick is to get a good guide. However good your guide is, be prepared for several occasions when you will have a queue of four wheel drives everybody is in the way of everybody else. This could be a disappointment for some, especially those who have done safaris in Africa, but overall the experience was memorable and worthwhile.

A delightful Sri Lankan family

These pictureses were taken of a family who make clay cooking pots and sell them to local markets. There they were by the roadside with a range of clay pots spread out. The driver/ guide was asked to stop. The intention was top buy a few pots and see what they were like for cooking. The boys insisted on demonstrating their impressive skills. Within minutes they had produced a clay pot and set it out to dry. No glazing no kilns. A purchase was duly made and what a good purchase it was. These pots are fatastic for stews, bakes and particulary curries. The family were really sweet and we had a reverse bartering situation.

Up in the Hill Country - Ella and Badulla

High up into Sri Lanka’s Hill Country you’ll find a small village called Ella. As you walk through the tiny and pretty station, you could be visiting a working railway museum. Everything looks about 80 years old. This place is off the main tourist trail and in terms of traveller types is very much the preserve of independent minded travellers and backpackers, so not for everyone. No plush hotels here, just simple guest houses with a few rooms. The accommodation here may be simple, but what views. Ambiente http://www.ambiente.lk/index.html, which is just above the village of Ella, is a good example of what to expect.

The main reason for staying here is the views and to enjoy walks in the beautiful countryside. There are waterfalls and temples to visit, but they are fairly small scale. You can also take a short train ride to the nearby town of Badulla. This is the main town in the province and has a range of stores which sell basic provisions and are aimed at local people.

Recommended for a few days as long as you are not the sort of traveller who must stay in high end accommodation everywhere you go.

From Kany to Ella - a railway journey to remember

Driving in Sri Lanka is a slow business. Taking the train even slower, but it is well worth doing. The journey from Kandy to Ella takes you through many tea plantations, high up into the ‘Hill Country’. The speed limit is 15km an hour so there is plenty of opportunity to take in the scenery. As you get higher the vegetation and climate change. For anyone who is curious and likes new experiences, the journey is ideal.

I wouldn’t want to do a daily commute this way. The train was very old, the loos very smelly and the grandeur of the first class carriage very faded. It was also very cheap and is worth going first class as although the carriage is shabby, it has huge windows. Try and get the backward facing seats at the rear of the train and you’ll have 180 degree views.

What a great experience.

Hunas Falls, Elkaduwa, Sri Lanka

The Hunas Falls is in Elkaduwa , a village in a spectacular mountain setting. It is only about 20km from Kandy, but takes the best part of an hour to get there. Some taxi drivers refuse to take you because of the difficulty of the journey. For the impatient or flash the hotel has a helipad.


However you get there, the journey is worth the effort as the setting is stunning. The hotel grounds have well tended grounds, a lake, waterfall and magnificent views. A great way to spend time is just to sit and stare or go for guided walks which can be arranged from the hotel.

The rooms have huge comfy beds and balconies which make the most of the amazing views. The restaurant was excellent. There is a lack of attention to detail in some areas, such as the pool area which doesn’t make the most of the setting and feels a bit cheap. This has to be put in context though and for the price, it is unfair to complain.

The location is the big draw of the Hunas Falls, but this could also put some people off. It isn’t ideal for families with kids who like manufactured fun and could be isolating for the solo traveller. It is perfect for anyone who appreciates outstanding natural beauty; ideally you should stay two or three nights and take some good books.

The main reason for staying in the Dambulla area of Sri Lanka is to visit some of the cultural heritage sites. It is possible to visit Sigiraya, the Cave Temples and Polonnaruwa in a day. The enthusiast could spend much longer as there is a lot to see, but a day should be enough for most people. The three sites are quite close to each other, but travel around Sri Lanka is a slow business.


The best way to visit the sites is to hire a guide/ driver. As well as the practicalities of getting around, it means you won’t have to negotiate with the many people who will want to be your guide and be most insistent in doing so. You’ll need plenty of water, sun block and should cover up. Some thick socks will also come in handy. Some of the sites require you to remove your shoes, not much fun when you are waking on a stone surface which has been exposed to the sun for many hours.

The easiest site was the Cave Temples at Dambulla. You walk up quite a steep incline to get to the caves, but it’s a short walk. The caves are all quite compact and have a wide range of Buddha images and cave paintings, it is believed they are 1900 years old.

The most impressive site was Polonnaruwa. It is about 1000 years old and was a Royal Capital for three centuries. There are many impressive examples which show the skill of those involved in the construction and get an impression of the vision and greatness of what was.

Sigiriya has at various times been a rock fortress and monastic retreat. You can walk up the 200m high rock and enjoy excellent views, there is also water garden, a boulder garden and caves with frescos.

If your itinerary allows, the sensible thing to do would be to do the Cave Temples one day and the Ancient Cities on the other. The Cave Temples are a convenient and easy stop off on the way to Kandy. The trip could be tricky with very young children and requires a degree of physical fitness.

Kandalama, Dambulla, Sri Lanka

Kandalama is the most distinctive hotel I have had the pleasure to stay in. It was designed by the late Sri Lankan architect, Geoffrey Bawa. The hotel is located in the heart of Sri Lanka’s cultural triangle, so tends to be used by people as a base from which to visit Dambulla Caves (just down the road) and also to see Polonnaruwa and Sigirya (a day trip).

First impressions were not that great. The hotel is down a pot-holed dirt track and the first sight you are greeted with is concrete and vegetation, but this is the back of the hotel and the front is on the fifth floor at the opposite end of the entrance to the hotel grounds. All very confusing, but it is because what would have been the cause of excavation destruction at other hotels, is a cause for celebration at Kandalama. The guiding design principles ignore the conventions of standard hotel layouts and are determined by what is in tune with the natural surroundings.

The wow factor comes on entering the hotel. The rock face which is at the core of the hotel juts through white walls, the reception area has open aspects to the outside where an infinity pool seems to merge into the lagoon beyond.

A good exploration of Kandalama delights all the senses. During the afternoon and until dusk relaxing flute music is played and there are lots of nooks and crannies where you can gaze into the yonder. A tree, which would have been chopped down during the development of many hotels grows right next to one of the windows and creates a wonderful vista.

The unusual design means getting from reception to your room is not a simple task and that you have to turn several corners and walk along various corridors, which are open to the elements. In contrast to the white walls the floors are black. The open aspects can feel a bit eerie at night, but are a delight in the mornings when monkeys can be heard and seen.

The rooms are great and either have a Jacuzzi or a shower which faces a huge window.

The eco credentials of the hotel are not just about the design, but the whole operation, such as re-using water and recycling materials such as containers.

Kandalama is an attraction in itself. Some of the furnishings are inspired too much by aesthetic impact and style over comfort, overall though, the Kandalama experience is wonderful and memorable. It’s a regret, that the hotel was just used as a base for visits to heritage sites and there was not more time to fully appreciate all the hotel has to offer.

Airfrikaans

It is a good idea to follow other blogs on your areas of interest. Today I discovered three very funny travel related travel sketches on a travel bolg website http://www.tipsfortravellers.com/ .

My favourite is the water sketch. In terms of British comedy it is very Catherine Tate. Like all good comedy it highlights something which has an element of truth and takes it to an extreme, in this case a character trait many may have witnessed in cabin staff, plus an Afrikaans twist. I'd love to know which show this is from.  Enjoy.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IV20B6bU8Pc

Macdonald Hotels - not that bad after all

I've been to the Macdonald Hotel in Machester for a meeting today. Previous experience of this company was very negative. They used to run the St Paul's Hotel in Sheffield. In terms of the chaotic service it felt like the chain equivalent to Fawlty Towers. I had a three terrible experiences in a row there. The last time was so bad and the manager so embarrased, the drinks we had ordered and waited for so long were on the house. This particular hotel is now run by the Mercure chain and has improved considerably. It is now a great palce end an evening out in Sheffield (see last post). Given the Sheffield experience I had a sense of dread about today in some respects, but consoled myself that this was just for a work related meeting, not a weekend away.

The meeting room was okay, but the various pillars got in the way of seeing the PowerPoint presentations. Tea and coffee was good and served in quite nice china. The lunch was tasty and the service efficient. The hotel felt of a good standard and does its job, but is a bit uninspiring. The location is ideal for work related meetings, it overlooks Picadilly Staion, so is a short walk from there. It is about ten minutes walk to the Bridgewater Hall and a good fifteen minutes from the Arndale Centre. For a leisure venue I prefer the Midland Hotel and the Raddison Edwardian. The location, next to the Bridgewater Hall is a better place to be if you are in Manchester for a few days and they are more stylish. They are also more expensive.

The Macdonald Hotel in Manchester wouldn't be my first choice of places to stay, but all in all I have a better view of Macdonald Hotels this evening than I had this morning.

Sheffield for a city break - why not?

I was out in my home city of Sheffield last night, but it felt a little like being away somewhere.

As my job isn't based in Sheffield, nights out in the middle of the week in the city centre are infrequent. A midweek night out is most likely to be a neighbourhood restaurant such as the Everest for a reliably good curry, Kitos for a satisfying Italian, or the Noodle Inn for something nourishing and oriental. All too occasionally it may be a meal at my favourite Italian restaurant, Marco at Milano, this is bit more expensive than the other places I have mentioned, but always very good.

Getting back to the point of the post, last night I met up with a friend in the city centre. The main purpose of meeting was to see the Pittmen Painters at the Lycium.

There was a lovely 'holiday' feel about the whole evening. Our pre-theatre meal, which was going to be a main course, ended up being three courses and even included dessert wine. The performance we saw is currently in Sheffield as part of a nationwide tour and due to go back to the National Theatre, so was of a standard you'd expect in London. The house was packed with an enthusiastic and appreciative appreciative audience. The evening ended happily with few glasses in the Champagne Bar at the St Paul's Hotel, where the atmosphere was vibrant.

It struck me the Sheffield would be a good place for city break. It has a good range of places to eat, city centre attractions and gorgeous countryside on the doorstep. It may be soon to lose a hotel (The Grosvener House), but that's because there are now so many better options.

I must do a future post on Sheffield for visitors.

Wish we were there at the same time!

I returned home the other night to a message from a friend saying she and her husband were going to book flights to Cape Town for a winter holiday and that she'd love to meet up while I am there with another friend. Great idea. I rang back, but it is a case of bad timing. They fly back the night we fly out, so we'll be on planes that pass in the night. In the air at the same time, but unfortuantely unable to meet up in Camps Bay and have a sundowner together.

Jervaulx Abbey - a haven for wild flowers or is it just overgrown?

Jervaulx Abbey, is in Yorkshire and was founded in the twelfth century and plundered during the dissolution of the monasteries in the sixteenth century.

It is described by the Jervaulx Abbey website as having “ crumbling walls........ heavily clad in diverse vegetation” http://www.jervaulxabbey.com/home.php . Others would describe it as a ruin which is very overgrown with weeds. The truth is somewhere in between the two.

Although the abbey is ruined, it is possible to get a feel for how splendid it must once have been. On a warm summer evening and with the right sort of light and the sun setting in the right direction, this would be an atmospheric setting to get some great photographs. On a very cold and windy day (the day I was there with two friends), it feels less romantic.

Unless you have a special interest in ruined abbeys, it isn’t worth going out of your way for, but is worth a look if you are passing by.

The Bowes Museum

The Bowes Museum is in the town of Barnard Castle in County Durham. It is the legacy of John Bowes and his wife Josephine Benoite. They wanted to bring art to the masses and this purpose built Museum is thanks to them, so it is said that the building was not completed until after their death. A friend described the style of the building as French Municipal, which sums it up really; it wouldn’t look out of place in a town square in France, so is a little incongruous in a typical English market town.

The artefacts cover European furniture, ceramics and paintings from the Middle Ages to the nineteenth century. It includes paintings by Caneletto ,Goya and many others and Recoco furniture.

The highlight of Bowes is the Silver Swan. It is a 240 year old clockwork swan covered in silver leaf, which moves as smoothly as if it was alive and eats a fish. You can see it in action at 2:00pm every afternoon and also by clicking on this link http://www.bbc.co.uk/mediaselector/check/england/realmedia/insideout/northeast/090114_io_north_east_swan?size=16x9&bgc=C0C0C0&nbram=1&bbram=1&nbwm=1&bbwm=1

There are also temporary exhibitions. It is good to see that the museum promotes local artists from the present day as well as having fine art from the past. It isn’t all serious fine art and at the moment there is an exhibition called ‘Toys Tales’ which is all about children’s television characters.

The Museum has a rather odd and unenforced photography policy. To take a photograph, you pay extra, but can’t use a flash, they don’t do anything to people who ignore the rule though, so what is the point?

The swan is the fun part of the visit for anyone and there is much else to see that will please you even if you just have a passing interest in fine art.

The Old Lodge, Staindrop, near Barnard Castle

The Old Lodge is a great venue for a holiday in the countryside with friends or family. It is a few miles from the village of Staindrop and reached by a single track road. Being well away from street lights means it is possible get excellent views of the stars on a clear night. The property has four bedrooms on three floors. Most of the rooms are extremely large and well proportioned. The only ‘small’ room is on the top floor and only seems small in comparison to other rooms in the house. In fact it is probably as big as a double room in an average family home.

We found the layout ideal. Everyone can be together while meals are being cooked, but there is enough room for people to find a quite space. On the ground floor there is a large living room with kitchen, eating and sitting areas. It has a huge open grate fire and logs are supplied. The downstairs bedroom and en-suite are a good size. On the first floor there is a huge bedroom and family bathroom with roll-top bath. On the top floor another huge bedroom, a smaller bedroom and shower room. Outside there are outbuildings, a games room, a pleasant sitting area and a stream running through the garden. The Old Lodge is built up on a mound, so the grounds are not very even, which could present problems for people who are unsteady on their feet.

The furnishings and equipment add a homely feel. The crockery, pans, sheets and floor coverings are all high quality. As mentioned in a previous post, there are also nice touches like an ipod docking station and printer.

An added bonus is that the property is over 600 years old, so has lots of character, such as thick walls, leaded windows and some stone floors. It is part of the Raby Castle Estate and has previously served as a look-out tower and hunting lodge. It was restored in 1991 by the 11th Lord Barnard. Rentals can be arranged through various agencies, we used Cottages4You.