A whistle stop tour of the East Sussex coast

Ruined pier at Hastings



Carting at Hastings




The Old Town, Hastings



One of the many wonderful buildings in Brighton

I recently did a whistle stop tour of the East Sussex coast, starting at Hastings and ending in Brighton. With the exception of Brighton I was visiting everywhere for the first time.


Accommodation in individual towns can be somewhat limited, but when the area is considered as a whole there are options to suit most tastes and budgets. St Leonards is a good place to be based if you want the accommodation to be the centre of your stay. It has some impressive looking boutique bed and breakfasts. I’d love to try Zanzibar, which looks extremely stylish and boasts great reviews on Trip Advisor. On this occasion we just needed a bed for the night, so opted for something much more functional and stayed the Premier Inn Hastings. It was easy to find and the out of town location on the main road into Hastings suited us, but would not be much good if you didn’t have a car.

As we went down a road leading to the Hastings promenade we saw a ruined pier and this set the scene for a seafront which has too many faded buildings, some Georgian and Edwardian, others unsympathetic 1970s developments. The mix of traditional seaside attractions, are more impressive. There is a novelty boating lake for children (you sail around in swan like contraptions), a surprising number of crazy golf courses (three next to each other) and some outdoor fairground rides along with the usual arcades. The highlight for big kids is the carting track, under the cover of the responsible adult accompanying an excited six year old, I had great fun.

In the old town the character of Hastings changes for the better with an interesting array of medieval houses. Wandering along you instinctively slow down and want to have a look inside these charming homes, many are directly facing the street you are walking along and however hard one tries, it is hard not to peer inside.

The main high street in the old town, feels as though it is in a market town with its antique shops, art shops and food shops such as an artisan baker. We were not totally satisfied on the food front though as there seemed to be a lack of options for eating out in the immediate area.

Mention Hastings to most people and they are probably as likely to think of a famous English battle as they are a night away by the sea. We did not explore the historic ruined castle and dungeons, nor did we have time to check out the aquarium or the child friendly Smugglers Adventure attraction. We didn’t ignore the history of the area altogether though and spent some time at Pevensey Castle, which also has links to the battle of 1066, but dates back to the 4th century.

Our desire to spend a few hours at Beachy Head meant we just drove straight through some places that it would be good to have seen in more detail. What a shame we could not take in an exhibition at the Art Deco, De La Warr Pavilion at Bexhill on Sea, or to have got more a feel for Eastbourne. I have always thought of Eastbourne as less fashionable and quieter than Brighton and was surprised to see how busy it was. Some of the architecture is similar to Brighton and the seafront is better preserved. Maybe this explains why much of the new film version of Brighton Rock, will be shot there? On another trip it would be good to see more of both places, but sacrificing them in order to experience Beachy Head was the right decision (see previous post).

For the last few hours of our trip it was a choice between discovering somewhere else new by going to Lewis or returning to familiar and well trodden ground by rounding off the day in Brighton. We opted for Brighton. As you walk by the seashore you see shops selling the inevitable seaside souvenirs and amusements, but you also get nice arty shops and bars that serve decent wine by the glass, something which is all too difficult to do in many British Seaside resorts.

It isn’t all good news though, as I walk along the prom in Brighton I never fail to be dismayed at the unsympathetic developments along the main section. Too many ugly high rises compete with the Regency architecture. As you get to Hove this changes, as you can walk down many a side street in Hove, Bright and Kemptown enjoy looking at the elegant buildings.

Brighton was a favoured haunt of royalty and the Royal pavilion built by George IV and hated by Queen Victoria, is open to visitors and worth viewing. It is hard to miss, with its elaborate eastern inspired domes. I am not really sure what to make it, a stranger could be forgiven for wondering if it is a themed nightclub, both from the outside and some of the interior decoration on the inside, it is worth seeing and judging for yourself.

Deciding where to eat was easy. We went to the Melrose, an unassuming looking fish restaurant on the main promenade and just off Regent Square. It has been established for forty odd years and while it looks like a tired and traditional cafe, the food and service are second to none.

The shingle beaches of the East Sussex coast are not exactly a big selling point, but overall the area offers a good combination of things to see and do. Several days could have easily been filled had we done the things we did at a more leisurely pace and not forgone others. On another occasion, it would be good to retrace our steps and perhaps to extend our exploration further along the coast.

Beachy Head, East Sussex, England

Beachy Head is an area of outstanding natural beauty on the East Sussex coast. It’s is only about seven miles long and close to the busy seaside town of Eastbourne, but feels like somewhere covering a larger and more remote area. It is easily reached on a well signposted road and as you travel along there are stop off points where you can take in the rolling countryside, chalk cliffs and the sea.

We went during the school holidays at Easter and while it was moderately busy, we escaped high volumes of people and traffic. We were able to park quite close to the cliff edge and see the spectacle of the sheer drop into the water after just a couple of minutes walk. There is a well established path towards a lighthouse in one direction or you can walk to the pinnacle of the cliff face in the other direction. You can get close up to the edge of the cliff face as it isn’t fenced off.

Although you can get amazing views with very little effort, you can spend easily spend longer exploring and learning about the area. There are plenty of cycling and walking opportunities as well as attractions such as a brewery and sheep centre. Beachy Head is an easy and worthwhile part of any trip to the East Sussex coast.

Scarborough, United Kingdom

Scarborough, is on the east coast of Yorkshire and was regular childhood holiday destination. It was exciting to visit again recently for a family night away, but this time as a grown up.

The town has avoided the decline that has affected some resorts whose heyday as tourist destinations has long gone, by modernising tourist facilities and diversifying the local economy to avoid over reliance on tourism. In 2009 it won a European Commission award as most enterprising town.

Elegant late Georgian and early Victorian buildings characterise the South Bay. It has coastal paths which give the sense of being somewhere remote, even though you are on the edge of a popular seaside town with a population of 50,000.

The main sea front is close to the South Bay. Its gift shops, amusements and fish and chip shops are characteristic of many British seaside resorts. As it was late October there were no sunbathers, but there was plenty of activity on the beach. Lots of dog walkers as the no dog rule is unenforced, some donkeys, many people strolling and even a sand sculptor.

The main town centre is much like any other with the usual chain stores and restaurants, along with some independently owned shops and eateries. Away from the main town centre the ‘Old Town’ is quaint in places, with plenty of narrow streets, some with cobblestones and lots of nooks and crannies to explore. Depending on where you wander, you will see some places which look a bit run down, but this isn’t on a significant scale. The main point of interest is the ruined castle and its commanding views.

The North Bay has a range of guest houses and is the newest part of the town. Most of the buildings date from the turn of the last century to the 1950s. It is a little away from the main town and while close to the sea, most of the seafront facilities are closer to the South Bay. Peasholm Park is a traditional park with a pleasant lake and oriental themes. There is also a nearby leisure centre with indoor pool.

The character of the town centre changes at night and becomes rowdy in places. The police presence is high and while noticeable the vibrant nightlife didn’t feel threatening.

Scarborough caters for different budgets and tastes. We were lucky to be staying at the Crown Spa in the South Bay. It has an impressive facade, lovely views and is on a very smart street. It has been transformed from a tired and badly run place to a comfortable well managed retreat. The style is fairly conservative and traditional, but it has a relaxing air about it. We liked our large room and the bathroom was okay, but could have been a bit more special for the price we paid. The facilities in general were a key reason for choosing the hotel and in particular the pool and health club facilities. We were well catered for at breakfast and the overall experience was a good one.

Wherever you stay in Scarborough , it has enough to keep most people happy for at least a few days. I think we’ll return.

Halong Bay and Cat Ba - worth staying for a few days

The seascape of Halong Bay makes it a must see place for many people who visit Vietnam. There are other areas in the world with similar scenery, but what is special about Halong Bay is the intensity and scale of the islands, islets and karsts; there are over 1900 islands which span a 120km of coastline.


Most people experience the spectacular scenery on a junk, which is a tourist boat that has the look of a traditional Chinese cargo ship. Junks usually have about eight cabins and run trips lasting one or two nights, they give you an opportunity to take in the views, explore caves, visit islands, swim and kayak.

Halong Bay is a tourist magnet and potentially it could be a huge disappointment. I can visualise people coming with the expectation of having a relaxing voyage and enjoying amazing views, only to have their trip ruined because they were restricted to a small area where they were driven to distraction by the sound of horns from other boats, loud music from booze cruises and felt the boats were more numerous than the rock formations they had come to see.

It is worth doing some research before booking a trip, as there isn’t necessarily a correlation between what you pay and what you get. We were lucky to have some good local knowledge and being able to talk to companies directly about what we wanted to see and do on the trip. This had the added advantage of us being able to negotiate a good price. At the very least check out forums and review sites on the web.

We opted for a 3 star junk called Cristina. The facilities in general were quite good. The bedroom had nice linen and the bathroom was fitted out to a reasonably high standard. Food was included in the price and was edible, but nothing special. The tour guide was helpful, enthusiastic and knowledgeable. Our trip included one night on the boat and a night on Cat Ba (an island). While we were on the boat we had a chance to kayak in the still waters, swim and to visit a cave. We were away from the heavy concentration of junks, but never in an area which was free of other boats. It would have been a real bonus if we could have ventured further afield away from the crowds. It was worrying that there was a noticeable haze and the water wasn’t very clean in places.

If we had longer it would have been good to have spent more time on Cat Ba. It’s a cosy resort with a laid back feel and doesn’t suffer from the high volume of traffic that we experienced in the larger cities. There is some development underway on the island, but hopefully the authorities will ensure this enhances the place and does not detract from its charm. A longer stay would also have allowed more time to explore the area more generally. This is definitely worth considering if you want the views without the crowds, as it means you can escape from the tourist trail.

Halong Bay and the surrounding area is one of the most beautiful and memorable places I have ever visited. I would strongly recommend anyone visiting Vietnam to include it on their itinerary, but to make sure they do their homework and book the trip through a reputable tour company.

Vinepearl Island, Nha Trang, Vietnam

Vinepearl Island is a short ferry or cable-car ride from Nha Trang. The huge ‘Hollywoodesque’ lettering which is visible from many parts of Nha Trang made me fear it would be tacky. I was pleasantly surprised. Attractions include amusements and rides, an impressive aquarium, a circus, a water park and a clean beach. The facilities are quite good with a wide range of shops and a few restaurants.

The water park was our main reason for visiting. It has an excellent range of features for kids and big kids. There are a few large slides, a children’s pool and smaller slides, a wave pool and a ‘rapids’ attraction (you sit on a large inflatable ring and a carried along by the momentum of the water).

Other attractions are typical of those seen in theme parks. We didn’t explore everything in detail, but did have look at the aquarium, which has a range of unusual fish.

Vinpearl has accommodation or you can just visit for the day as we did. Staying for longer may suit some people, but others would it a bit limiting. It isn’t a good base for wider exploration of Nha Trang because it takes about 20 minutes to get to the mainland and then a further ten to get into the main part of Nha Trang. VinpearI gets some good reviews from honeymoon couples, something I find curious as it strikes me as a great choice for family entertainment taken in the right dose or an afternoon of fun for friends travelling together, but not a place that is set up for solo travellers or couples. I am glad we went and that our stay was short and sweet. 

The Sheraton, Nha Trang, Vietnam.

The Sheraton in Nha Trang was the base for the beach part of a recent holiday to Vietnam. We wanted something which combined good service and modern amenities, but did not totally cut us off from the place we were visiting. We considered alternatives such as the Novotel (not as luxurious) and also self contained resorts such as the Evason Ana Mandara Six Senses Hidaway and Vinpearl Resort and Spa (both a little cut off from the main town and they get hit and miss reviews on Trip Advisor). The Sheraton opened in March and has all the hallmarks which make Sheraton one of my favourite hotel brands. In my view this is definitely the best choice in Nha Trang regardless of whether the trip is a holiday or business trip.

The public areas are clean, light, luxurious and spacious. I love the design touches which in places make the hotel have the feel of being in an art gallery. The staff strike just the right balance between attentiveness, friendliness and professionalism. The breakfast offerings are wide ranging to suit Vietnamese and international palates. You could get anything from fish soup and noodles to bacon and egg. We tried most of what was on offer during our four night stay and on the whole the standard was good. Where it did fall down it was as much to do with the pitfalls of mass catering and food lying around a bit, as it was to do with using poor ingredients or poor cooking. The pools ( a main pool, paddling pool and plunge pool) are on the sixth floor. The main infinity pool looks stunning and has great views of the ocean and mountains. On the seventh floor there are gym facilities, a sauna, steam room and jacuzzi. These facilities were fine as they go, but the jacuzzi was so large that it felt a bit more like a paddling pool with water pumped in around the edges.

There are three main levels of room, and the ones on the Starwood Preferred Guest floor (the middle level of room) offered a high standard, it was spacious and luxurious with all the nice touches you expect plus a few more, we liked the open bathroom with privacy screen, which means you can enjoy great ocean views while having a bath. Access to the beach is across a busy road, but staff usher you across safely. During the day a small section of the beach across from the hotel is sectioned off and has loungers, towels and someone on hand to get you a drink or some food.

The big benefit of the location is that guests are not cut off from the rest of Nha Trang and local restaurants and shops are just a short stroll away. It is worth exploring a little as some of the local restaurants provide great offerings at amazingly low prices. Venture a little further and you can sample ‘street food’ and see a little more of the resort. People have been coming to Nha Trang for many years and it caters for all budgets and travel styles. The more expensive hotels are a more recent addition, but there are plenty of mid-range and backpacker options. The negative part of the location is that the main road is very busy and there is lots of building work going on in this part of Nha Trang. The sound of horns and building work can be heard from the pool area and when the balcony doors of your room are open. The ocean view is lovely, but look along the road and you see lots of building work. Although this is a well established resort, it is undergoing a lot of change mainly in the form of large hotels and plush apartments. This is particularly the case on the stretch of the road next to the Sheraton.

The prices at the hotel are on a par with those for similar types of hotel anywhere in the world. In some respects that is fine, but it seems so much more when you compare the price of food and drink at local restaurants. A slight annoyance was those little extras which were added onto the bill and were not immediately apparent at the time of booking.

All things considered the Sheraton in Nha Trang is a great base and most of the negatives are as much to do with the annoyances of staying in a resort which is undergoing change as they are to do with the hotel or the staff.

Hanoi, Vietnam

Hanoi was the start and end point of a recent trip to Vietnam. It is a bustling capital city of a developing country which is undergoing change. The city has distinct quarters and during this short visit it wasn’t possible to explore all of them. There are modern developments of the type seen in major cities around the world, but also plenty to see which reflects the culture and history of Vietnam. A water puppet show is a must for any visitor regardless of their age. Water puppetry involves the puppeteers standing in a pool of water and working puppets on rods from behind a bamboo screen. Most of the scenes are rich in symbolism and are performed to traditional music. The Museum of Fine Art was also a rewarding experience. It offers an extremely well put together collection of Vietnamese paintings and sculptures and is just the right size to take in over a couple hours. It was not possible to visit the Ho Chi Min Museum as it was closed, which is a great regret as it is reputed to offer an excellent overview of Vietnam’s history as well as being about one of its foremost leaders.

It isn’t just the sites which make a city, but the feel and the vibe. To the uninitiated Hanoi and other busy Vietnamese cities can be daunting. The traffic (predominantly motorcycles) is non-stop. The rules for crossing the road are very different from the ones I’m used to. You find a crossing, but unless it has traffic lights, you don’t wait for the traffic to stop, you just weave your way through and the drivers just drive around you. The same principle applies to driving. You just point your vehicle in the direction you want to go, look out for others and make your way to where you want to go. It sounds crazy, but works, because everyone observes the same set of ‘rules’.

Eating out in Hanoi and other major cities is far from bland and there are plenty of options. The large cities have the ubiquitous fast-food restaurant chains seen in many big cities, but there are plenty of other options. Most international food seems to be available at restaurants in the larger hotel chains. For many middle-class people, eating out is at a family run restaurant serving a range of Vietnamese food. A particularly memorable meal at such a restaurant was a goose feast, every conceivable part of the goose was cooked in a variety of different ways. A speciality and favourite of mine was a hot pot dish, here a pot of stock is placed on a burner in the centre of your table and it is surrounded with your chosen ingredients, usually a selection of fish, or type of meat along with seasonal vegetables. You cook the food as you want to eat it. The quickest and cheapest option is to buy food from the many street vendors, who specialise in just a few dishes or maybe even a single dish. They often operate with minimal equipment, a burner, a pot and a collection of tiny mobile tables and stools. The food from these sellers is often delicious, though it is a case of the buyer using their judgement about the freshness of the food and hygiene standards. Shopping is a similar experience to eating, there are some of the large international brands available in Hanoi, but not on the scale as in more developed cities. It is more common to find small independent retailers who either specialise in a single type of item or sell a wide range of goods. It was noticeable that even on the outskirts of the city there seem to be rows of shops everywhere. More modern shopping malls have arrived, but are not plentiful.

Vietnamese people are welcoming, warm and friendly. The spirit was summed up by events on National Day, which falls on September 2 and is when Vietnam celebrates its Independence from France. Huge crowds gathered in the centre of Hanoi to enjoy street entertainment and a massive firework display. It was a happy peaceful event and lacked the sort of tension that can mar such occasions. It was a great way to spend the last night of a memorable holiday.

Water puppets

Street food

A typical cafe

Flags out for National Day