Tony Ellingham's Travel Blog

A whistle stop tour of the East Sussex coast

2011-05-07T17:03:00.002+01:00

Ruined pier at Hastings

Carting at Hastings

The Old Town, Hastings

One of the many wonderful buildings in Brighton

I recently did a whistle stop tour of the East Sussex coast, starting at Hastings and ending in Brighton. With the exception of Brighton I was visiting everywhere for the first time.

Accommodation in individual towns can be somewhat limited, but when the area is considered as a whole there are options to suit most tastes and budgets. St Leonards is a good place to be based if you want the accommodation to be the centre of your stay. It has some impressive looking boutique bed and breakfasts. I’d love to try Zanzibar, which looks extremely stylish and boasts great reviews on Trip Advisor. On this occasion we just needed a bed for the night, so opted for something much more functional and stayed the Premier Inn Hastings. It was easy to find and the out of town location on the main road into Hastings suited us, but would not be much good if you didn’t have a car.

As we went down a road leading to the Hastings promenade we saw a ruined pier and this set the scene for a seafront which has too many faded buildings, some Georgian and Edwardian, others unsympathetic 1970s developments. The mix of traditional seaside attractions, are more impressive. There is a novelty boating lake for children (you sail around in swan like contraptions), a surprising number of crazy golf courses (three next to each other) and some outdoor fairground rides along with the usual arcades. The highlight for big kids is the carting track, under the cover of the responsible adult accompanying an excited six year old, I had great fun.

In the old town the character of Hastings changes for the better with an interesting array of medieval houses. Wandering along you instinctively slow down and want to have a look inside these charming homes, many are directly facing the street you are walking along and however hard one tries, it is hard not to peer inside.

The main high street in the old town, feels as though it is in a market town with its antique shops, art shops and food shops such as an artisan baker. We were not totally satisfied on the food front though as there seemed to be a lack of options for eating out in the immediate area.

Mention Hastings to most people and they are probably as likely to think of a famous English battle as they are a night away by the sea. We did not explore the historic ruined castle and dungeons, nor did we have time to check out the aquarium or the child friendly Smugglers Adventure attraction. We didn’t ignore the history of the area altogether though and spent some time at Pevensey Castle, which also has links to the battle of 1066, but dates back to the 4th century.

Our desire to spend a few hours at Beachy Head meant we just drove straight through some places that it would be good to have seen in more detail. What a shame we could not take in an exhibition at the Art Deco, De La Warr Pavilion at Bexhill on Sea, or to have got more a feel for Eastbourne. I have always thought of Eastbourne as less fashionable and quieter than Brighton and was surprised to see how busy it was. Some of the architecture is similar to Brighton and the seafront is better preserved. Maybe this explains why much of the new film version of Brighton Rock, will be shot there? On another trip it would be good to see more of both places, but sacrificing them in order to experience Beachy Head was the right decision (see previous post).

For the last few hours of our trip it was a choice between discovering somewhere else new by going to Lewis or returning to familiar and well trodden ground by rounding off the day in Brighton. We opted for Brighton. As you walk by the seashore you see shops selling the inevitable seaside souvenirs and amusements, but you also get nice arty shops and bars that serve decent wine by the glass, something which is all too difficult to do in many British Seaside resorts.

It isn’t all good news though, as I walk along the prom in Brighton I never fail to be dismayed at the unsympathetic developments along the main section. Too many ugly high rises compete with the Regency architecture. As you get to Hove this changes, as you can walk down many a side street in Hove, Bright and Kemptown enjoy looking at the elegant buildings.

Brighton was a favoured haunt of royalty and the Royal pavilion built by George IV and hated by Queen Victoria, is open to visitors and worth viewing. It is hard to miss, with its elaborate eastern inspired domes. I am not really sure what to make it, a stranger could be forgiven for wondering if it is a themed nightclub, both from the outside and some of the interior decoration on the inside, it is worth seeing and judging for yourself.

Deciding where to eat was easy. We went to the Melrose, an unassuming looking fish restaurant on the main promenade and just off Regent Square. It has been established for forty odd years and while it looks like a tired and traditional cafe, the food and service are second to none.

The shingle beaches of the East Sussex coast are not exactly a big selling point, but overall the area offers a good combination of things to see and do. Several days could have easily been filled had we done the things we did at a more leisurely pace and not forgone others. On another occasion, it would be good to retrace our steps and perhaps to extend our exploration further along the coast.

Beachy Head, East Sussex, England

2011-04-27T21:49:00.001+01:00

Beachy Head is an area of outstanding natural beauty on the East Sussex coast. It’s is only about seven miles long and close to the busy seaside town of Eastbourne, but feels like somewhere covering a larger and more remote area. It is easily reached on a well signposted road and as you travel along there are stop off points where you can take in the rolling countryside, chalk cliffs and the sea.

We went during the school holidays at Easter and while it was moderately busy, we escaped high volumes of people and traffic. We were able to park quite close to the cliff edge and see the spectacle of the sheer drop into the water after just a couple of minutes walk. There is a well established path towards a lighthouse in one direction or you can walk to the pinnacle of the cliff face in the other direction. You can get close up to the edge of the cliff face as it isn’t fenced off.

Although you can get amazing views with very little effort, you can spend easily spend longer exploring and learning about the area. There are plenty of cycling and walking opportunities as well as attractions such as a brewery and sheep centre. Beachy Head is an easy and worthwhile part of any trip to the East Sussex coast.

Scarborough, United Kingdom

2010-12-14T23:18:00.006Z

Scarborough, is on the east coast of Yorkshire and was regular childhood holiday destination. It was exciting to visit again recently for a family night away, but this time as a grown up.

The town has avoided the decline that has affected some resorts whose heyday as tourist destinations has long gone, by modernising tourist facilities and diversifying the local economy to avoid over reliance on tourism. In 2009 it won a European Commission award as most enterprising town.

Elegant late Georgian and early Victorian buildings characterise the South Bay. It has coastal paths which give the sense of being somewhere remote, even though you are on the edge of a popular seaside town with a population of 50,000.

The main sea front is close to the South Bay. Its gift shops, amusements and fish and chip shops are characteristic of many British seaside resorts. As it was late October there were no sunbathers, but there was plenty of activity on the beach. Lots of dog walkers as the no dog rule is unenforced, some donkeys, many people strolling and even a sand sculptor.

The main town centre is much like any other with the usual chain stores and restaurants, along with some independently owned shops and eateries. Away from the main town centre the ‘Old Town’ is quaint in places, with plenty of narrow streets, some with cobblestones and lots of nooks and crannies to explore. Depending on where you wander, you will see some places which look a bit run down, but this isn’t on a significant scale. The main point of interest is the ruined castle and its commanding views.

The North Bay has a range of guest houses and is the newest part of the town. Most of the buildings date from the turn of the last century to the 1950s. It is a little away from the main town and while close to the sea, most of the seafront facilities are closer to the South Bay. Peasholm Park is a traditional park with a pleasant lake and oriental themes. There is also a nearby leisure centre with indoor pool.

The character of the town centre changes at night and becomes rowdy in places. The police presence is high and while noticeable the vibrant nightlife didn’t feel threatening.

Scarborough caters for different budgets and tastes. We were lucky to be staying at the Crown Spa in the South Bay. It has an impressive facade, lovely views and is on a very smart street. It has been transformed from a tired and badly run place to a comfortable well managed retreat. The style is fairly conservative and traditional, but it has a relaxing air about it. We liked our large room and the bathroom was okay, but could have been a bit more special for the price we paid. The facilities in general were a key reason for choosing the hotel and in particular the pool and health club facilities. We were well catered for at breakfast and the overall experience was a good one.

Wherever you stay in Scarborough , it has enough to keep most people happy for at least a few days. I think we’ll return.

Halong Bay and Cat Ba - worth staying for a few days

2010-10-05T00:29:00.001+01:00

The seascape of Halong Bay makes it a must see place for many people who visit Vietnam. There are other areas in the world with similar scenery, but what is special about Halong Bay is the intensity and scale of the islands, islets and karsts; there are over 1900 islands which span a 120km of coastline.

Most people experience the spectacular scenery on a junk, which is a tourist boat that has the look of a traditional Chinese cargo ship. Junks usually have about eight cabins and run trips lasting one or two nights, they give you an opportunity to take in the views, explore caves, visit islands, swim and kayak.

Halong Bay is a tourist magnet and potentially it could be a huge disappointment. I can visualise people coming with the expectation of having a relaxing voyage and enjoying amazing views, only to have their trip ruined because they were restricted to a small area where they were driven to distraction by the sound of horns from other boats, loud music from booze cruises and felt the boats were more numerous than the rock formations they had come to see.

It is worth doing some research before booking a trip, as there isn’t necessarily a correlation between what you pay and what you get. We were lucky to have some good local knowledge and being able to talk to companies directly about what we wanted to see and do on the trip. This had the added advantage of us being able to negotiate a good price. At the very least check out forums and review sites on the web.

We opted for a 3 star junk called Cristina. The facilities in general were quite good. The bedroom had nice linen and the bathroom was fitted out to a reasonably high standard. Food was included in the price and was edible, but nothing special. The tour guide was helpful, enthusiastic and knowledgeable. Our trip included one night on the boat and a night on Cat Ba (an island). While we were on the boat we had a chance to kayak in the still waters, swim and to visit a cave. We were away from the heavy concentration of junks, but never in an area which was free of other boats. It would have been a real bonus if we could have ventured further afield away from the crowds. It was worrying that there was a noticeable haze and the water wasn’t very clean in places.

If we had longer it would have been good to have spent more time on Cat Ba. It’s a cosy resort with a laid back feel and doesn’t suffer from the high volume of traffic that we experienced in the larger cities. There is some development underway on the island, but hopefully the authorities will ensure this enhances the place and does not detract from its charm. A longer stay would also have allowed more time to explore the area more generally. This is definitely worth considering if you want the views without the crowds, as it means you can escape from the tourist trail.

Halong Bay and the surrounding area is one of the most beautiful and memorable places I have ever visited. I would strongly recommend anyone visiting Vietnam to include it on their itinerary, but to make sure they do their homework and book the trip through a reputable tour company.

Vinepearl Island, Nha Trang, Vietnam

2010-09-27T21:43:00.000+01:00

Vinepearl Island is a short ferry or cable-car ride from Nha Trang. The huge ‘Hollywoodesque’ lettering which is visible from many parts of Nha Trang made me fear it would be tacky. I was pleasantly surprised. Attractions include amusements and rides, an impressive aquarium, a circus, a water park and a clean beach. The facilities are quite good with a wide range of shops and a few restaurants.

The water park was our main reason for visiting. It has an excellent range of features for kids and big kids. There are a few large slides, a children’s pool and smaller slides, a wave pool and a ‘rapids’ attraction (you sit on a large inflatable ring and a carried along by the momentum of the water).

Other attractions are typical of those seen in theme parks. We didn’t explore everything in detail, but did have look at the aquarium, which has a range of unusual fish.

Vinpearl has accommodation or you can just visit for the day as we did. Staying for longer may suit some people, but others would it a bit limiting. It isn’t a good base for wider exploration of Nha Trang because it takes about 20 minutes to get to the mainland and then a further ten to get into the main part of Nha Trang. VinpearI gets some good reviews from honeymoon couples, something I find curious as it strikes me as a great choice for family entertainment taken in the right dose or an afternoon of fun for friends travelling together, but not a place that is set up for solo travellers or couples. I am glad we went and that our stay was short and sweet.

The Sheraton, Nha Trang, Vietnam.

2010-09-06T20:54:00.002+01:00

The Sheraton in Nha Trang was the base for the beach part of a recent holiday to Vietnam. We wanted something which combined good service and modern amenities, but did not totally cut us off from the place we were visiting. We considered alternatives such as the Novotel (not as luxurious) and also self contained resorts such as the Evason Ana Mandara Six Senses Hidaway and Vinpearl Resort and Spa (both a little cut off from the main town and they get hit and miss reviews on Trip Advisor). The Sheraton opened in March and has all the hallmarks which make Sheraton one of my favourite hotel brands. In my view this is definitely the best choice in Nha Trang regardless of whether the trip is a holiday or business trip.

The public areas are clean, light, luxurious and spacious. I love the design touches which in places make the hotel have the feel of being in an art gallery. The staff strike just the right balance between attentiveness, friendliness and professionalism. The breakfast offerings are wide ranging to suit Vietnamese and international palates. You could get anything from fish soup and noodles to bacon and egg. We tried most of what was on offer during our four night stay and on the whole the standard was good. Where it did fall down it was as much to do with the pitfalls of mass catering and food lying around a bit, as it was to do with using poor ingredients or poor cooking. The pools ( a main pool, paddling pool and plunge pool) are on the sixth floor. The main infinity pool looks stunning and has great views of the ocean and mountains. On the seventh floor there are gym facilities, a sauna, steam room and jacuzzi. These facilities were fine as they go, but the jacuzzi was so large that it felt a bit more like a paddling pool with water pumped in around the edges.

There are three main levels of room, and the ones on the Starwood Preferred Guest floor (the middle level of room) offered a high standard, it was spacious and luxurious with all the nice touches you expect plus a few more, we liked the open bathroom with privacy screen, which means you can enjoy great ocean views while having a bath. Access to the beach is across a busy road, but staff usher you across safely. During the day a small section of the beach across from the hotel is sectioned off and has loungers, towels and someone on hand to get you a drink or some food.

The big benefit of the location is that guests are not cut off from the rest of Nha Trang and local restaurants and shops are just a short stroll away. It is worth exploring a little as some of the local restaurants provide great offerings at amazingly low prices. Venture a little further and you can sample ‘street food’ and see a little more of the resort. People have been coming to Nha Trang for many years and it caters for all budgets and travel styles. The more expensive hotels are a more recent addition, but there are plenty of mid-range and backpacker options. The negative part of the location is that the main road is very busy and there is lots of building work going on in this part of Nha Trang. The sound of horns and building work can be heard from the pool area and when the balcony doors of your room are open. The ocean view is lovely, but look along the road and you see lots of building work. Although this is a well established resort, it is undergoing a lot of change mainly in the form of large hotels and plush apartments. This is particularly the case on the stretch of the road next to the Sheraton.

The prices at the hotel are on a par with those for similar types of hotel anywhere in the world. In some respects that is fine, but it seems so much more when you compare the price of food and drink at local restaurants. A slight annoyance was those little extras which were added onto the bill and were not immediately apparent at the time of booking.

All things considered the Sheraton in Nha Trang is a great base and most of the negatives are as much to do with the annoyances of staying in a resort which is undergoing change as they are to do with the hotel or the staff.

Hanoi, Vietnam

2010-09-06T20:05:00.000+01:00

Hanoi was the start and end point of a recent trip to Vietnam. It is a bustling capital city of a developing country which is undergoing change. The city has distinct quarters and during this short visit it wasn’t possible to explore all of them. There are modern developments of the type seen in major cities around the world, but also plenty to see which reflects the culture and history of Vietnam. A water puppet show is a must for any visitor regardless of their age. Water puppetry involves the puppeteers standing in a pool of water and working puppets on rods from behind a bamboo screen. Most of the scenes are rich in symbolism and are performed to traditional music. The Museum of Fine Art was also a rewarding experience. It offers an extremely well put together collection of Vietnamese paintings and sculptures and is just the right size to take in over a couple hours. It was not possible to visit the Ho Chi Min Museum as it was closed, which is a great regret as it is reputed to offer an excellent overview of Vietnam’s history as well as being about one of its foremost leaders.

It isn’t just the sites which make a city, but the feel and the vibe. To the uninitiated Hanoi and other busy Vietnamese cities can be daunting. The traffic (predominantly motorcycles) is non-stop. The rules for crossing the road are very different from the ones I’m used to. You find a crossing, but unless it has traffic lights, you don’t wait for the traffic to stop, you just weave your way through and the drivers just drive around you. The same principle applies to driving. You just point your vehicle in the direction you want to go, look out for others and make your way to where you want to go. It sounds crazy, but works, because everyone observes the same set of ‘rules’.

Eating out in Hanoi and other major cities is far from bland and there are plenty of options. The large cities have the ubiquitous fast-food restaurant chains seen in many big cities, but there are plenty of other options. Most international food seems to be available at restaurants in the larger hotel chains. For many middle-class people, eating out is at a family run restaurant serving a range of Vietnamese food. A particularly memorable meal at such a restaurant was a goose feast, every conceivable part of the goose was cooked in a variety of different ways. A speciality and favourite of mine was a hot pot dish, here a pot of stock is placed on a burner in the centre of your table and it is surrounded with your chosen ingredients, usually a selection of fish, or type of meat along with seasonal vegetables. You cook the food as you want to eat it. The quickest and cheapest option is to buy food from the many street vendors, who specialise in just a few dishes or maybe even a single dish. They often operate with minimal equipment, a burner, a pot and a collection of tiny mobile tables and stools. The food from these sellers is often delicious, though it is a case of the buyer using their judgement about the freshness of the food and hygiene standards. Shopping is a similar experience to eating, there are some of the large international brands available in Hanoi, but not on the scale as in more developed cities. It is more common to find small independent retailers who either specialise in a single type of item or sell a wide range of goods. It was noticeable that even on the outskirts of the city there seem to be rows of shops everywhere. More modern shopping malls have arrived, but are not plentiful.

Vietnamese people are welcoming, warm and friendly. The spirit was summed up by events on National Day, which falls on September 2 and is when Vietnam celebrates its Independence from France. Huge crowds gathered in the centre of Hanoi to enjoy street entertainment and a massive firework display. It was a happy peaceful event and lacked the sort of tension that can mar such occasions. It was a great way to spend the last night of a memorable holiday.

Water puppets

Street food

A typical cafe

Flags out for National Day

Yorkshire Airlines

2010-08-21T06:43:00.000+01:00

A friend and fellow Yorkshireman posted this on his Facebook page recently. It made me chuckle.

Township visits

2010-08-08T18:45:00.001+01:00

Most visitors to Cape Town only see the townships as they arrive and depart from the airport. It isn’t very sensible to go there on your own, but it is safe and interesting to go on an organised visit. Some people are put off the idea thinking its like treating local residents as curiosities, but I think it comes down to the way the visit is organised. There are a number of operators who provide a range of tours that are run by people who live in the townships, so the money they make directly benefits the local area, which has to be a good thing. Reputable tours typically include visits to a range of community projects, a market and a bar. You can also organise evening visits which include a music venue and meal. You can even stay in a house in a township for part of your stay. Notionally you book into Vicky’s B&B, but as she only has two rooms, she may be full, so will put you in touch with a network of other people who offer a similar service. It is a world away from the Cape Town most people visit, but worth doing if you like to get a feel what it is like to live in a township. Sometimes this sort of thing can be a bit phoney, but done properly a township trip can be informative and have a real benefit for the local community you are visiting. For more information about Vicky’s B&B follow this link http://www.vickysbedandbreakfast.com/

A symbol of hope

2010-08-07T22:43:00.000+01:00

This is a travel blog and not a politics blog, but I just had to include these pictures, which would not have been possible in South Africa's recent past and offer hope for its future. They were taken on the beach at Camps Bay.

Steenberg wine estate, Constantia Valley

2010-08-07T22:33:00.003+01:00

The Steenberg wine estate in Constantia Valley, is just a short drive from Cape Town and not far from the slopes of Table Mountain. It is away from the main Cape Winelands tourist route, but an easy visit if you have a car or a driver/ guide. You can go there and combine a visit to Kirstenbosch Botanical gardens in half a day, leaving Cape Town after breakfast and getting back late afternoon. Everything at Steenberg is beautiful and stylish. The vineyard also has a high end hotel and spa next to it, never been there, but it rates highly on Trip Advisor. There is also a restaurant in the main vineyard. I made sure I wasn’t driving for this vineyard visit, so got to do the tasting. Previously I had only had the Sauvignon Blanc, which I love and was keen to see if the rest of the range was of the same standard. I am pleased to say that it was and particularly recommend the Merlot 2007.

Cape Winelands - Franschheok, Stellenbosch and Paarl: much more to them than wine

2010-08-07T17:41:00.007+01:00

It isn’t hard to see why Franschheok, Stellenbosh and Paarl are the part of the Cape wine region most tourists visit. It must be one of the most beautiful wine regions in the world. You can enjoy the highlights on a day trip or do things at a more leisurely pace and base yourself in the area for part of your holiday. There are a wide range of accommodation types from hugely expensive (we are talking four figures a night) to cheap and simple. You also get plenty of fine dining opportunities, especially in the Franschheok area, which has some of the country’s best restaurants. Paarl is the largest town in the Cape Winelands and boasts a huge granite outcrop. Stellenbosch is a University town so is more vibrant and youthful, where as Franschheok is pretty and quaint. Much of the area has French connections and as its name suggests Franschheok (French corner) has strongest links with France. French Huguenots established vineyards here in the seventeenth century and they were welcomed by the Dutch who gave them land rights. When I think of this part of the Western Cape, I think of big blue skies, dramatic mountain backdrops, Cape Dutch architecture and of course wine.

Companies such as Day Trippers organise a small group trip, which means there are about eight of you in a mini-van http://www.daytrippers.co.za/ . This is good value and good fun. You have some scope to influence where you go, get a chance to share travel tales with others and sharing the trip with them cuts costs. On a couple of occasions I have been the designated driver for DIY trips, so visited vineyards but not tasted; even though I love the grape, I still enjoyed the day. If you want to visit particular vineyards and no one wants to miss out on the tasting, then hire a driver for the day. Although more expensive than the group trips, it represents good value for what you get and means you have total control over where to go. I would organise this through Randy’s a thoroughly professional outfit who specialise in airport transfers and private tours http://www.randystours.com/index.html.

My favourite vineyard visits in this area include:

Villiera http://www.villiera.com/ which isn’t as pretty as some other vineyards, but has a fabulous range of Methode Cape Classique wine (this uses Champagne technique to produce some great fizz).

Graham Beck http://www.grahambeckwines.co.za/ also does some great bubbly and the range of wine in general is consistently good.

Fairview http://www.fairview.co.za/ is a highly commercial operation and attracts lots of tourists with its gift shop, cheeses, eatery and goat herd.

Solms-Delta http://www.solms-delta.co.za/ is of interest as it has a strong community empowerment focus and interesting museum, they produce a red fizzy wine called Cape Jazz Shiraz, not a fine wine, but a fun one and a great choice to quaff at a braai (South African barbecue).

A typical view

Huguenot memorial at Franschhoek

Offerings from Graham Beck

Resident goats at Fairview

Sunset from Signal Hill

2010-06-06T12:35:00.000+01:00

When I did the Table Mountain and Signal Hill post the other day I could not find a picture that I particulalry wanted to include. I am glad to say that I have come across it. It was taken a few years ago after a drive to Cape Point. What a lovely way to end a day out sightseeing and what a great spot to watch the sun go down.

Table Mountain and Signal Hill - why you should visit them both

2010-06-03T22:09:00.010+01:00

How time flies. A few months since my last post and since I returned from wonderful Cape Town. My plan to do posts every day didn’t quite work out. Back to retrospectives and it is logical to pick up where I left off.

Almost every set of pictures you see of Cape Town in a brochure will include one of Table Mountain and it is certainly high up on any list of must visit sites. A less obvious site, but one where you can get some of the best pictures of the mountain from is Signal Hill. It is just a short drive (less than ten minutes) from Table Mountain and a good option to do on the same day.

Table Mountain is just a short drive or taxi ride from the main tourist hotspots of the city. The best advice is go up on the first clear day. Even on a nice sunny day the mountain is often covered in cloud or as it is sometimes referred to, ‘the table cloth’. The vast majority of people go up and down on the cable car. Queues can be quite long, so you need to be patient or be lucky; there are times when there isn’t much of a crowd, it isn’t a precise science though. The cable car revolves so be sure to get to the edge and enjoy the 360 degree panorama. The more energetic can walk up and it takes a couple of hours. Stick to the advice in guide books and stay on well established paths. An alternative for walkers is to tackle the walk from the Kirstenbosh Botanical Gardens side, this means a thirty minute drive out of the city, but the gardens are wonderful and I will cover them in a future post. Some friends did this walk a few years ago and rate it highly, particularly good as you are in the shade much of the time.

Once on top of the mountain you may find the weather is drastically different from what it was like at the bottom. I have been up on days when it has been cold and extremely windy on top and glorious sun bathing weather at the bottom. This isn’t always the case though and the weather up on top of the mountain can be just as good as below. Up on top you can walk an easy loop among guided paths and clouds permitting get city and seascape views. There is of course a gift shop and cafe. A few years ago there was a bar up next to the cable car station, which could be reached up some steps. It has floor to ceiling windows and balcony so the views are amazing. Inexplicably it is now closed. What are they thinking of? Unless you want to do some serious exploring an hour is plenty to take in the views.

The big mistake many people make is not to include a trip to Signal Hill after or before the visit Table Mountain. This is such a shame as from the Signal Hill viewing area you get a lovely perspective of Table Mountain and also views of the sea, the city and the new football stadium at Green Point. The one time when the area gets busy is sunset, it is great to get there early with a picnic and enjoy the views.

Table Mountain fom Signal Hill

Lion's Head

Camps Bay from Table Mountain

Seascape view from Table Mountain

Cape Town to Cape Point - a perfect day out

2010-03-07T21:46:00.001Z

A visit to Cape Point and Boulders Beach is a fabulous day out combining spectacular scenery and opportunities to see wildlife. You can do an organised trip, but the best option by far is to hire a car and do it at your own pace. You leave Cape Town by Camps Bay on a road which hugs the mountains and gives you amazing views. After this it gets even better as you drive along Chapman’s Peak. It really is a drive which has to been seen and experienced to be fully appreciated. There are various stop off points where you can take your pictures and will just stare in wonder. Chapman’s Peak is all too short a drive, but there are plenty more attractions when it has finished. There are numerous small coastal towns where you can stop for lunch. Simons Town, with its naval base is one option, but I prefer the livelier Kalk Bay. If you want to rub shoulders with local people and enjoy some tasty fish and chips, then go to Kalkys. Next stop is Boulders Beach where you can see a penguin colony up close. It is likely to be very windy, but you will see lots of penguins from the viewing platforms. If you avoid weekends and the middle of the day you may be able to stand near the penguins on the beach or the rocks, watch out though they peck. The final stop is Cape Point and the Cape of Good Hope; both are close to each other and offer walking opportunities as well as a chance to see ostriches, baboons and other wildlife. We were lucky to see a couple of families of baboons and I got some pictures of them. We also saw a wild ostrich by the road gazing into the ocean, what a great picture that would have been. Never mind at least I got a picture of the ostrich. This is a rewarding and memorable day out as anyone could wish to do and an easy drive from Cae Town.

One of the many spectacular views along Capman's Peak drive

Boulders Beach

Baboon family close to Cape Point

Ostrich close to the Cape of Good Hope

Dining on Kloof Street

2010-03-05T20:54:00.000Z

Kloof Street brings you from the edge of the centre of Cape Town up a steep hill onto the slopes of Table Mountain. The hilly nature of the street and some of the architecture makes it feel a bit like the sort of street you find in San Francisco. It has a good choice of places to eat, testified by how many locals eat there and is a great alternative to the more touristy places like Camps Bay and The Waterfront. So where should you dine? At the top of Kloof Street is Baccinis, a cheap and reliable Italian restaurant which does great Pizza and serves draft Perioni. Shelly’s, is a nice place to go for lunch as it offers a good range of gourmet sandwiches and light lunch options. Inside is stylish and outside is a good spot for people watching and starring at Table Mountain. Right next door is Tonis, where you can get tasty and reasonably priced Portuguese – Mozambique food, which is quite spicy. A little further down on the corner of Kloof and Camp Street, Saigon serves the best Vietnamese food in Cape Town.

The Bo-Kaap, Cape Town

2010-03-03T15:08:00.000Z

The Bo-Kaap is one of the oldest neighbourhoods in Cape Town. The colourful houses really stand out against the backdrop of Table Mountain and the high rise cityscape. The area has a high Muslim population and there are a few mosques in the neighbourhood. Unlike nearby District Six, the Bo-Kaap survived apartheid legislation which saw many communities forcibly displaced. The Bo-Kaap has an interesting museum on Wale Street, which is close to the city centre. Even if the museum isn’t open, it is still worth visiting and walking around the area soaking up the atmosphere and taking some pictures.

The Garden Route was more like Cloudy Bay

2010-03-03T13:57:00.000Z

It was unfortunate that our time in the Garden Route was during a period of bad weather; it rained for much of the time and on some days the clouds were so low we saw very little. Our first stop was Mossell Bay, we then moved to Storms River Village and returned to Cape Town via Swellendam.

Mossell Bay is generally regarded as the first of the main seaside towns on the Garden Route and popular with tourists. Wilderness is a tiny town which has a fantastic long beach and unusual land feature called the Map of Africa. Knysna is the next main point of interest, with its lagoon and pleasant waterfront shopping mall. Plettenberg Bay is the next main town along the coast. Plettenberg Bay and Mossell Bay feel very much as though they have a large contingent of retired Europeans and South Africans. They are undeniably pretty, but some people may find them a little bland.

Storms River Village is in the Tsitsikamma National Park and just a few miles from Storms River Mouth. This is an idyllic setting close to woodland, the sea and with a mountain backdrop. It is a great base for outdoorsy types, with plenty of options for walkers. Those who want to live dangerously can do a bungee jump from Boukouran's Bridge (not possible when we went as it was covered in cloud). The village has a good feeling of community about it, for example one of the local tour companies, Tsitsikamma Canopy Tours is heavily involved with local projects and you feel local people are benefitting from the tourism. We finished our Garden Route trip with a night in Swellendam. It is a pretty enough town and a good stop over before moving on to Cape Town or the winelands of Paarl, Francheock and Stellenbosch.

Chanter’s Lodge, Livingstone – A good choice for budget travel

2010-02-27T22:20:00.001Z

It is a week since returning from Zambia, but it has been difficult to do posts up until now. During the Zambia part of the trip our base was Chanter’s Lodge, which is a short walk from the town of Livingstone and owned by a British guy called Richard Chanter. It has ten rooms of varying sizes. The family room with its two double beds and bunk beds suited us (two friends who wanted a bit of personal space, but happy to share a room). It also has a restaurant and pleasant pool area. We only paid $79.00 a night and got good service and a nice breakfast. It would have been better if there had been a little more attention to detail here and there, but for the money we paid we were satisfied. Chanter's is located in a suburb of Livingstone which has a mixture of homes owned by local people and budget accommodation. Some of the properties are very desirable, others faded and in need of restoration. We have been to local bars, seen people going about their business and it has been good to get a sense of life in a Livingstone suburb.

We loved the facilities at the Zambezi Sun, David Livingstone Safari Lodge and most of all at the Royal Livingstone. The trouble with these places is that you are in a sanitised tourist bubble (albeit a very luxurious one) and are far away from the people whose country you are visiting. Having said that I like a bit of luxury and think it is good fun to mix travel styles. To find out more about Chanters Lodge see http://www.chanters-livingstone.com/

If you are in Livingstone visit Olga's

2010-02-20T14:20:00.000Z

Olga's is a project in Livingstone, Zambia, which provides educational and training opportunities for disadvantaged young people. You can help them and enjoy a good meal by visiting their Italian restaurant, they specialise in pizza. The project also includes a guest house (not sure what it is like) and sales of local crafts. On the basis of a visit their last night I recommendend a visit. For more information check out their blog http://olgasproject.blogspot.com/ The picture is copied from their site.

Exotic pets at the Royal Livingstone

2010-02-19T16:20:00.000Z

The Royal Livingstone in Zambia has some very exotic ‘pets’ indeed. As you walk around the grounds of the hotel and the surrounding area you are likely to see baboons, monitor lizards, giraffes and zebra. It was disappointing not to see some baboons, but I managed to capture a giraffe and zebra on camera and here they are.

A traditional Zambian village

2010-02-19T16:15:00.000Z

We have just returned from a ‘traditional village’ called Mukuni . It is a genuine village and you get a bit of a feel for how people live. The population is 7,000 and many people live in traditionally constructed houses like the ones pictured. Although traditional it geared at tourists and at the end you get to do an obligatory tour of a craft market. Difficult to say whether the stuff we bought was made there or massed produced. We proved to be terrible at haggling, but enjoyed the overall experience. Best of all the guide is local and all proceeds appear to benefit local community projects. You can book the trip through Chris Mweetwa chrismweetwa@gmail.com.

Livingstone Island - another great way to see the Victoria Falls

2010-02-19T09:06:00.001Z

Livingstone Island is a short distance from The Royal Livingstone Hotel. When the Falls are full you have to get there by boat. You get the opportunity to see the Falls from very close indeed. During the dry season you can swim in Devils Pool and peer down a huge precipice. This time of year that isn’t possible, but you can still have a dip in the water as I did. The current is extremely strong , but the guides make sure you are safe. You round the trip off with drinks of your choice and refreshments. We went in the late afternoon so had high tea, which included various tartlets, scones, chocolate brownies and cream profiteroles. Mine were washed down with Pimms and lemonade. Overall a fantastic experience.

The Victoria Falls – amazing however they are viewed

2010-02-18T09:45:00.000Z

The main reason for including Zambia on this trip has been to see the Victoria Falls. You can fly over the Falls in a helicopter or for an adrenaline rush a microlite flight. On the helicopter trip you see the Fall from all angles and as long as your camera has a good zoom, you can capture some good pictures. At a $130 per head for 15 minutes, this is an expensive trip, but the experience makes it worth it in my view.

On foot the experience is almost as awesome. An opportunity to experience bits of the Falls close up. At the moment the Falls are very full so there is a lot of spray and in certain parts on the ground you just get drenched. It is possible to get good views and keep dry though.

You can also take a steam train, but were told that it is more of a fine dining and train enthusiasts experience than a getting a good view of the falls experience. With so many things to do in Livingstone and in just a few days, I think we’ll give the train a miss.

A few days in Cape Town

2010-02-16T03:30:00.002Z

Even just a few days in Cape Town revives the spirits. The trip got off to a good start and we had many glasses of fizz in the Virgin Clubhouse. The nice lady just kept topping us up. Sunday was lovely and sunny and saw us having lunch at Blues (food not as good as it used to be) followed by time on the beach, lounging around the wonderful 2Inn1 (see last post) and dinner at Beluga (expensive and a little disappointing). A long walk on Monday from the Waterfront to Camps Bay after having a nice lunch a Rootis, which does wonderful Cape Malay food. After sundowners at the hotel we walked a short distance to Kloof Street followed by dinner at Tonis, a Portuguese Mozambique restaurant.

Today we are off to Zambia to see the mighty Victoria Falls and explore Livingstone.

The 2Inn1 is second to none

2010-02-12T06:26:00.000Z

I am delighted to be staying at the fabulous 2Inn1 Kensington, Cape Town in few days time. The hotel has earned top spot on Trip Advisor and it isn't hard to see why. It is in a great spot on the slopes of Table Mountain, close to everything but in a quiet residential location. If you don't fancy going too far in the evening, it is safe enough to wander the short distance to numerous restaurants on trendy Kloof Street. The hotel is stylish, comfortable and tasteful. The rooms are large with lovely showers, big comfy beds and all you need, some have views of Table Mountain and Lion's Head. Cape Town has many attractions, but it is just great to spend time chilling by the pool. The ownwers and staff really go the extra mile to make guests happy. The other day I emailed them with a query about a restaurant. Not only did they make a provisional booking, but included about dozen recommendations of other places to eat with brief details. I am delighted to be going back and can't imagine staying anywhere else in Cape Town.

Breakfast in Berlin

2010-01-31T23:13:00.000Z

A late and lazy breakfast at Cafe Einstein is the ideal start your day. It is housed in a villa which was once owned by a star of the German silver screen. Many of the original features are still there and outside there is a lovely garden area. They do a special breakfast which is a mini buffet for two people or more and includes rolls, meats, salmon, cream cheese, fruit and yogurt. It is served on tiered cake stand.

The story of Berlin and bunker tour

2010-01-31T23:04:00.000Z

The Story of Berlin provides an easy and interesting overview of Berlin over the last 800 years. It’s a doddle to find as it is on Kurfurstendamm, a main shopping street. It has many displays and uses artefacts and multimedia. Most displays focus on the years between the rise of the Third Reich through the Cold War years to the fall of the Berlin Wall. The displays bring key moments in Berlin’s history to life and provide a sense of the life of Berliners from the past. I particularly liked the mock ups of period rooms. The Museum also includes a tour of a real underground bunker, which is interesting and very disconcerting. You learn there are not enough bunkers and that that they are useless anyway as you wouldn’t survive that long in one of them.

Blown away by the Berggruen Museum.

2010-01-24T23:52:00.000Z

You could spend a day enjoying the attractions in Charlottenburg. The Baroque splendour of Charlottenburg Palace attracts many visitors. I haven’t been round it and reviews of those who have are mixed. The Brohan Museum is another option, it has a range of art nouveau and art deco pieces of furniture, art and sculpture. It is well laid out and easy to spend an hour enjoying what it has to offer. Without doubt the highlight of Charlottenburg (and arguably Berlin), is the Berggruen Museum. It features the work of Klee, Picasso and Matisse, includes an African art exhibition and a small range of works by some other artists. There are also a small number of sculptures, most notably a cast of Giacometti’s Le Chat. The Picasso collection is impressive and wide ranging, covering his blue period, pink period and some excellent examples of cubism. All too often a fantastic gallery just has too much to take in, the Brugguen has just about the right sized collection to enjoy in one viewing. It is certainly worth going back though, to take it all in again.

Berlin: a night at the opera

2010-01-24T23:35:00.002Z

A great way to spend an evening in Berlin is at the Duetche Opera. The prices are a fraction of what they are at Covent Garden. On a recent visit we were initially disappointed that Angela Gehorgio had pulled out of La Traviatta. We still went and were delighted with the performance of Carmen Gianatissimo, she isn’t that well known yet, but deserves to be.

Berlin: Potsdamer Platz to Bradenberg Gate

2010-01-24T23:05:00.001Z

Potsdamer Platz is a showcase for modern urban regeneration. The Sony Centre is located here and has places to eat and shop and is covered by an impressive dome. It is just a short walk to the New National Gallery, where you can spend a happy couple of hours, if you like modern art. Some fresh air will be in order after that and it isn’t far to Tiergarten Park. You can walk through the park towards the Bradenburg Gate and the Reichstag, but before getting there be sure to have a look at the Holocaust Memorial on the way. Very modern and bold and I am sure not to everyone’s liking. It is worth a visit to the Reichstag and going on the roof to admire yet another dome. This one is designed by Sir Norman Foster and you can walk to the top of it. The Brandenburg Gate is a must for pictures. A half hour stroll along the River Spree is time well spent as it allows one to see how the old and new aspects of the parliament building combine. In my view it is a happy marriage.

Berlin: Alexanderplatz to Gendarmenmarkt

2010-01-23T18:55:00.001Z

Standing in Alexanderplatz feels a bit like being in the centre of a large industrial city from the sixties with a space age feature (the TV tower or Fernsehturm) thrown in. You get 360 degree views from the observation area of the tower and it has a revolving restaurant. There are a range of architectural styles in this part of the city, grand, some brutal sixties and a sprinkling of new developments.

The St Nicholas Quarter is nearby (Nikolaiviertel) and has lots of historic buildings which border the River Spree. It is a good place to be in the summer, because you can sit out by the river and enjoy a drink

You soon get to Museum Island with its five Museums. It is impossible to take in everything that is on offer in a single viewing, so a case of spending a selective couple of hours, or a couple days. You can take your pick from German artists, impressionists, nineteenth century sculpture, Islamic art and ancient antiquities. If scale is your thing, the Pergamon Museum is a must, with its magnificent Pergamon Alter.

A little more strolling and you come to Gendarmenmarkt. The architecture in this imposing square is in stark contrast to Alexanderplatz. It boasts two cathedrals either side, one French, one German and a Concert Hall in the middle. It is a good place for a spot of lunch or just to rest for a while and enjoy the surroundings. If the weather is good there are plenty of outdoor eating options. There are also bars and restaurants overlooking the square. The trendy Newton Bar, has a mural of nudes on the wall. It is quite boisterous at night, but more sedate during the day and has a good range of Champagne.

Fassbender & Rausch overlooks the square and sells a huge range of delicious chocolate. I am no chocoholic, but love this place. The shops in this part of the city are high end. Even if shopping isn’t your thing, it is worth popping into Galleries Lafeyette and admiring the glass cone which runs through the middle of the building from the floor to the ceiling. I know it sounds a bit anoraky, but it really is worth viewing it from the top looking down and basement looking up

Luxury and seclusion in Sri Lanka

2010-01-10T15:08:00.000Z

Those wanting to really spoil themselves can chose from a range of luxurious villas which can be found on the South Coast of Sri Lanka. I like the look of this one which is in Walligama and built on its own Island called Taprobane. http://www.villasinsrilanka.com/property.php?resid=12

Relaxing on the beach in Unawatuna

2010-01-10T14:56:00.001Z

A few days in Unawatuna, on the South Coast of Sri Lanka is a perfect way to wind down. The tourism here is low impact. Not many shops apart from a few which just sell a basic range of items. There isn’t a promenade either, so all the restaurants and bars are directly facing the beach or a short stroll away from it from on un-tarred road. Not for everyone, but great if you want to get away from highly developed resorts dominated by large hotels. Most of the accommodation here ranges from simple lodges to boutique hotels. The Villa was great choice offering comfortable accommodation at a reasonable price and right on the beach. http://www.reddottours.com/322/the-villa-accomodation-profile.htm

There is little to do other than wander along the bay or walk up on to ‘Jungle Beach’; very relaxing and a great place to just enjoy the simple things in life.

Galle is a short drive away by tuk-tuk or bus and is the nearest large town. It has shops, a market an old fort and some larger hotels. I recommended The Lighthouse for those who prefer something closer to a regular resort hotel.

At the very least Unawatuna is worth a visit for a few hours and a great place to stay for longer for those who can take the slow pace.

A Sri Lankan Safari

2009-12-02T22:35:00.002Z

The Yala Safari Lodge is a comfortable resort style hotel. There is a good pool area near a main building which houses a bar and restaurant. The rooms are in a series single and two story chalets spread across the grounds. You have a good sized room, bathroom and personal seating area. The decor has a strong ‘safari’ theme. The sea is just a short stroll in one direction and a lagoon in the other.

Much thought has gone into minimising the environmental impact of the development. As you walk round the grounds you may well see the abundant wildlife, don’t be surprised if the odd monitor lizard (they are several feet in length) crosses your path. In the interests of the wildlife and the guests’ safety, journeys back to the hotel room are accompanied by hotel staff after dark.

The hotel is in the Yala Safari Park boundary, so game drives are easy. The trick is to get a good guide. However good your guide is, be prepared for several occasions when you will have a queue of four wheel drives everybody is in the way of everybody else. This could be a disappointment for some, especially those who have done safaris in Africa, but overall the experience was memorable and worthwhile.

A delightful Sri Lankan family

2009-11-29T23:30:00.001Z

These pictureses were taken of a family who make clay cooking pots and sell them to local markets. There they were by the roadside with a range of clay pots spread out. The driver/ guide was asked to stop. The intention was top buy a few pots and see what they were like for cooking. The boys insisted on demonstrating their impressive skills. Within minutes they had produced a clay pot and set it out to dry. No glazing no kilns. A purchase was duly made and what a good purchase it was. These pots are fatastic for stews, bakes and particulary curries. The family were really sweet and we had a reverse bartering situation.

Up in the Hill Country - Ella and Badulla

2009-11-29T22:56:00.001Z

High up into Sri Lanka’s Hill Country you’ll find a small village called Ella. As you walk through the tiny and pretty station, you could be visiting a working railway museum. Everything looks about 80 years old. This place is off the main tourist trail and in terms of traveller types is very much the preserve of independent minded travellers and backpackers, so not for everyone. No plush hotels here, just simple guest houses with a few rooms. The accommodation here may be simple, but what views. Ambiente http://www.ambiente.lk/index.html, which is just above the village of Ella, is a good example of what to expect.

The main reason for staying here is the views and to enjoy walks in the beautiful countryside. There are waterfalls and temples to visit, but they are fairly small scale. You can also take a short train ride to the nearby town of Badulla. This is the main town in the province and has a range of stores which sell basic provisions and are aimed at local people.

Recommended for a few days as long as you are not the sort of traveller who must stay in high end accommodation everywhere you go.

From Kany to Ella - a railway journey to remember

2009-11-26T00:10:00.001Z

Driving in Sri Lanka is a slow business. Taking the train even slower, but it is well worth doing. The journey from Kandy to Ella takes you through many tea plantations, high up into the ‘Hill Country’. The speed limit is 15km an hour so there is plenty of opportunity to take in the scenery. As you get higher the vegetation and climate change. For anyone who is curious and likes new experiences, the journey is ideal.

I wouldn’t want to do a daily commute this way. The train was very old, the loos very smelly and the grandeur of the first class carriage very faded. It was also very cheap and is worth going first class as although the carriage is shabby, it has huge windows. Try and get the backward facing seats at the rear of the train and you’ll have 180 degree views.

What a great experience.

Hunas Falls, Elkaduwa, Sri Lanka

2009-11-26T00:09:00.001Z

The Hunas Falls is in Elkaduwa , a village in a spectacular mountain setting. It is only about 20km from Kandy, but takes the best part of an hour to get there. Some taxi drivers refuse to take you because of the difficulty of the journey. For the impatient or flash the hotel has a helipad.

However you get there, the journey is worth the effort as the setting is stunning. The hotel grounds have well tended grounds, a lake, waterfall and magnificent views. A great way to spend time is just to sit and stare or go for guided walks which can be arranged from the hotel.

The rooms have huge comfy beds and balconies which make the most of the amazing views. The restaurant was excellent. There is a lack of attention to detail in some areas, such as the pool area which doesn’t make the most of the setting and feels a bit cheap. This has to be put in context though and for the price, it is unfair to complain.

The location is the big draw of the Hunas Falls, but this could also put some people off. It isn’t ideal for families with kids who like manufactured fun and could be isolating for the solo traveller. It is perfect for anyone who appreciates outstanding natural beauty; ideally you should stay two or three nights and take some good books.

2009-11-22T14:51:00.002Z

The main reason for staying in the Dambulla area of Sri Lanka is to visit some of the cultural heritage sites. It is possible to visit Sigiraya, the Cave Temples and Polonnaruwa in a day. The enthusiast could spend much longer as there is a lot to see, but a day should be enough for most people. The three sites are quite close to each other, but travel around Sri Lanka is a slow business.

The best way to visit the sites is to hire a guide/ driver. As well as the practicalities of getting around, it means you won’t have to negotiate with the many people who will want to be your guide and be most insistent in doing so. You’ll need plenty of water, sun block and should cover up. Some thick socks will also come in handy. Some of the sites require you to remove your shoes, not much fun when you are waking on a stone surface which has been exposed to the sun for many hours.

The easiest site was the Cave Temples at Dambulla. You walk up quite a steep incline to get to the caves, but it’s a short walk. The caves are all quite compact and have a wide range of Buddha images and cave paintings, it is believed they are 1900 years old.

The most impressive site was Polonnaruwa. It is about 1000 years old and was a Royal Capital for three centuries. There are many impressive examples which show the skill of those involved in the construction and get an impression of the vision and greatness of what was.

Sigiriya has at various times been a rock fortress and monastic retreat. You can walk up the 200m high rock and enjoy excellent views, there is also water garden, a boulder garden and caves with frescos.

If your itinerary allows, the sensible thing to do would be to do the Cave Temples one day and the Ancient Cities on the other. The Cave Temples are a convenient and easy stop off on the way to Kandy. The trip could be tricky with very young children and requires a degree of physical fitness.

Kandalama, Dambulla, Sri Lanka

2009-11-22T12:04:00.002Z

Kandalama is the most distinctive hotel I have had the pleasure to stay in. It was designed by the late Sri Lankan architect, Geoffrey Bawa. The hotel is located in the heart of Sri Lanka’s cultural triangle, so tends to be used by people as a base from which to visit Dambulla Caves (just down the road) and also to see Polonnaruwa and Sigirya (a day trip).

First impressions were not that great. The hotel is down a pot-holed dirt track and the first sight you are greeted with is concrete and vegetation, but this is the back of the hotel and the front is on the fifth floor at the opposite end of the entrance to the hotel grounds. All very confusing, but it is because what would have been the cause of excavation destruction at other hotels, is a cause for celebration at Kandalama. The guiding design principles ignore the conventions of standard hotel layouts and are determined by what is in tune with the natural surroundings.

The wow factor comes on entering the hotel. The rock face which is at the core of the hotel juts through white walls, the reception area has open aspects to the outside where an infinity pool seems to merge into the lagoon beyond.

A good exploration of Kandalama delights all the senses. During the afternoon and until dusk relaxing flute music is played and there are lots of nooks and crannies where you can gaze into the yonder. A tree, which would have been chopped down during the development of many hotels grows right next to one of the windows and creates a wonderful vista.

The unusual design means getting from reception to your room is not a simple task and that you have to turn several corners and walk along various corridors, which are open to the elements. In contrast to the white walls the floors are black. The open aspects can feel a bit eerie at night, but are a delight in the mornings when monkeys can be heard and seen.

The rooms are great and either have a Jacuzzi or a shower which faces a huge window.

The eco credentials of the hotel are not just about the design, but the whole operation, such as re-using water and recycling materials such as containers.

Kandalama is an attraction in itself. Some of the furnishings are inspired too much by aesthetic impact and style over comfort, overall though, the Kandalama experience is wonderful and memorable. It’s a regret, that the hotel was just used as a base for visits to heritage sites and there was not more time to fully appreciate all the hotel has to offer.

Airfrikaans

2009-11-07T19:31:00.002Z

It is a good idea to follow other blogs on your areas of interest. Today I discovered three very funny travel related travel sketches on a travel bolg website http://www.tipsfortravellers.com/ .

My favourite is the water sketch. In terms of British comedy it is very Catherine Tate. Like all good comedy it highlights something which has an element of truth and takes it to an extreme, in this case a character trait many may have witnessed in cabin staff, plus an Afrikaans twist. I'd love to know which show this is from. Enjoy.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IV20B6bU8Pc

Macdonald Hotels - not that bad after all

2009-11-05T21:18:00.004Z

I've been to the Macdonald Hotel in Machester for a meeting today. Previous experience of this company was very negative. They used to run the St Paul's Hotel in Sheffield. In terms of the chaotic service it felt like the chain equivalent to Fawlty Towers. I had a three terrible experiences in a row there. The last time was so bad and the manager so embarrased, the drinks we had ordered and waited for so long were on the house. This particular hotel is now run by the Mercure chain and has improved considerably. It is now a great palce end an evening out in Sheffield (see last post). Given the Sheffield experience I had a sense of dread about today in some respects, but consoled myself that this was just for a work related meeting, not a weekend away.

The meeting room was okay, but the various pillars got in the way of seeing the PowerPoint presentations. Tea and coffee was good and served in quite nice china. The lunch was tasty and the service efficient. The hotel felt of a good standard and does its job, but is a bit uninspiring. The location is ideal for work related meetings, it overlooks Picadilly Staion, so is a short walk from there. It is about ten minutes walk to the Bridgewater Hall and a good fifteen minutes from the Arndale Centre. For a leisure venue I prefer the Midland Hotel and the Raddison Edwardian. The location, next to the Bridgewater Hall is a better place to be if you are in Manchester for a few days and they are more stylish. They are also more expensive.

The Macdonald Hotel in Manchester wouldn't be my first choice of places to stay, but all in all I have a better view of Macdonald Hotels this evening than I had this morning.

Sheffield for a city break - why not?

2009-11-04T21:48:00.011Z

I was out in my home city of Sheffield last night, but it felt a little like being away somewhere.

As my job isn't based in Sheffield, nights out in the middle of the week in the city centre are infrequent. A midweek night out is most likely to be a neighbourhood restaurant such as the Everest for a reliably good curry, Kitos for a satisfying Italian, or the Noodle Inn for something nourishing and oriental. All too occasionally it may be a meal at my favourite Italian restaurant, Marco at Milano, this is bit more expensive than the other places I have mentioned, but always very good.

Getting back to the point of the post, last night I met up with a friend in the city centre. The main purpose of meeting was to see the Pittmen Painters at the Lycium.

There was a lovely 'holiday' feel about the whole evening. Our pre-theatre meal, which was going to be a main course, ended up being three courses and even included dessert wine. The performance we saw is currently in Sheffield as part of a nationwide tour and due to go back to the National Theatre, so was of a standard you'd expect in London. The house was packed with an enthusiastic and appreciative appreciative audience. The evening ended happily with few glasses in the Champagne Bar at the St Paul's Hotel, where the atmosphere was vibrant.

It struck me the Sheffield would be a good place for city break. It has a good range of places to eat, city centre attractions and gorgeous countryside on the doorstep. It may be soon to lose a hotel (The Grosvener House), but that's because there are now so many better options.

I must do a future post on Sheffield for visitors.

Wish we were there at the same time!

2009-10-24T08:42:00.012+01:00

I returned home the other night to a message from a friend saying she and her husband were going to book flights to Cape Town for a winter holiday and that she'd love to meet up while I am there with another friend. Great idea. I rang back, but it is a case of bad timing. They fly back the night we fly out, so we'll be on planes that pass in the night. In the air at the same time, but unfortuantely unable to meet up in Camps Bay and have a sundowner together.

Jervaulx Abbey - a haven for wild flowers or is it just overgrown?

2009-10-23T23:32:00.009+01:00

Jervaulx Abbey, is in Yorkshire and was founded in the twelfth century and plundered during the dissolution of the monasteries in the sixteenth century.

It is described by the Jervaulx Abbey website as having “ crumbling walls........ heavily clad in diverse vegetation” http://www.jervaulxabbey.com/home.php . Others would describe it as a ruin which is very overgrown with weeds. The truth is somewhere in between the two.

Although the abbey is ruined, it is possible to get a feel for how splendid it must once have been. On a warm summer evening and with the right sort of light and the sun setting in the right direction, this would be an atmospheric setting to get some great photographs. On a very cold and windy day (the day I was there with two friends), it feels less romantic.

Unless you have a special interest in ruined abbeys, it isn’t worth going out of your way for, but is worth a look if you are passing by.

The Bowes Museum

2009-10-23T22:51:00.010+01:00

The Bowes Museum is in the town of Barnard Castle in County Durham. It is the legacy of John Bowes and his wife Josephine Benoite. They wanted to bring art to the masses and this purpose built Museum is thanks to them, so it is said that the building was not completed until after their death. A friend described the style of the building as French Municipal, which sums it up really; it wouldn’t look out of place in a town square in France, so is a little incongruous in a typical English market town.

The artefacts cover European furniture, ceramics and paintings from the Middle Ages to the nineteenth century. It includes paintings by Caneletto ,Goya and many others and Recoco furniture.

The highlight of Bowes is the Silver Swan. It is a 240 year old clockwork swan covered in silver leaf, which moves as smoothly as if it was alive and eats a fish. You can see it in action at 2:00pm every afternoon and also by clicking on this link http://www.bbc.co.uk/mediaselector/check/england/realmedia/insideout/northeast/090114_io_north_east_swan?size=16x9&bgc=C0C0C0&nbram=1&bbram=1&nbwm=1&bbwm=1

There are also temporary exhibitions. It is good to see that the museum promotes local artists from the present day as well as having fine art from the past. It isn’t all serious fine art and at the moment there is an exhibition called ‘Toys Tales’ which is all about children’s television characters.

The Museum has a rather odd and unenforced photography policy. To take a photograph, you pay extra, but can’t use a flash, they don’t do anything to people who ignore the rule though, so what is the point?

The swan is the fun part of the visit for anyone and there is much else to see that will please you even if you just have a passing interest in fine art.

The Old Lodge, Staindrop, near Barnard Castle

2009-10-20T21:03:00.007+01:00

The Old Lodge is a great venue for a holiday in the countryside with friends or family. It is a few miles from the village of Staindrop and reached by a single track road. Being well away from street lights means it is possible get excellent views of the stars on a clear night. The property has four bedrooms on three floors. Most of the rooms are extremely large and well proportioned. The only ‘small’ room is on the top floor and only seems small in comparison to other rooms in the house. In fact it is probably as big as a double room in an average family home.

We found the layout ideal. Everyone can be together while meals are being cooked, but there is enough room for people to find a quite space. On the ground floor there is a large living room with kitchen, eating and sitting areas. It has a huge open grate fire and logs are supplied. The downstairs bedroom and en-suite are a good size. On the first floor there is a huge bedroom and family bathroom with roll-top bath. On the top floor another huge bedroom, a smaller bedroom and shower room. Outside there are outbuildings, a games room, a pleasant sitting area and a stream running through the garden. The Old Lodge is built up on a mound, so the grounds are not very even, which could present problems for people who are unsteady on their feet.

The furnishings and equipment add a homely feel. The crockery, pans, sheets and floor coverings are all high quality. As mentioned in a previous post, there are also nice touches like an ipod docking station and printer.

An added bonus is that the property is over 600 years old, so has lots of character, such as thick walls, leaded windows and some stone floors. It is part of the Raby Castle Estate and has previously served as a look-out tower and hunting lodge. It was restored in 1991 by the 11th Lord Barnard. Rentals can be arranged through various agencies, we used Cottages4You.

A lovely Sunday

2009-10-18T20:45:00.006+01:00

We had a late and leisurly breakfast buffet done by me with lots of assistance. The only criticism was that there was no maple syrup for the pancakes.

Afterwards some of us went for a moderate walk into Staindrop follwed by a pint, others stayed at the Old Lodge relaxed.

It hasn't rained on us and was nice and sunny this morning. The good thing about going away at this time of year is that there are no high expectations of good weather. That it has been warm for the time of year and sunny has been a bonus.

Those of us who went for the walk enjoyed a drink in the The Wheatsheaf. Not many people in there, but it seems to be a hub of community activity judging by the trophys and notices about local groups. On the way back the women walked briskly and were home well before the blokes.

We have had a lazy afternoon and evening enjoying a rib of beef and all the trimmings. The chefs for this task excel at roast beef and did us proud. A good end to an enjoyable weekend.

A weekend in the countryside

2009-10-17T18:44:00.019+01:00

The Old Lodge

The Bowes Museum

High Force

During the summer a friend had the excellent idea of a group of us hiring somewhere in the countryside for a few days and now here we (seven of us) are. We are staying at The Old Lodge in Staindrop, which is near Barnard Castle in County Durham. The Old Lodge dates from the 14th Century and feels like a rather grand home, not a holiday let. Careful attention has been paid to every detail. Not only do we have wireless Internet access, but nice little touches like a wireless printer and Bose docking station for our ipods. I will do a separate post, soon about our wonderful base for the weekend.

We arrived on Friday and toasted the beginning of our long weekend with some fizz. We ate an excellent fish pie and washed it down with white wine, followed by more wine and conversation. We teased the person who has organised the weekend for suggesting we bring two bottles of wine each and we will continue to do so. It is fair to say that we went over our suggested four glass ration on Friday, but we didn't stay up that late or drink that much, even so I felt decidedly 'fragile' this morning. The breakfast buffet task, which was allocated to me was completed, but took great effort.

Today we split into two groups, the hikers and strollers/ gallery goers. I opted to stroll. We did a short walk to High Force, which is a waterfall on land owned by the Raby Castle estate. We had to pay to park and walk on the trail and were surprised that they didn't extract money for us to have a pee as well. Times must be hard for the aristocracy. We were amused by the many signs on the trail with detailed instructions about what we could and could not do. Basically they were saying if you kill or injure yourself, its your fault.

Later we went to the Bowes Museum (more detail about this in a later post). It is a palatial setting with many fine art works. We loved the clockwork silver swan which moved around so smoothly it looked as though it was computer generated.

We then went into Barnard Castle, an archetypal English market town. We had a lovely traditional lunch at a cafe.

After eating we decided to call into a gallery I had spotted on our way to the Cafe called Mouncey Fine Art. We were delighted with the impressive range range of ceramics and paintings. I purchased a humorous dog by Marie Prett and was tempted to buy a piece by Christine Cummings (another dog). We came back to the Lodge and met up with the hikers. We shared stories of our day and decided on a name for my ceramic dog. He will be called Barnard.

We have had an enjoyable evening in. Delicious Jambalaya, great choice of music, stimulating conversation and good fun.

A day trip to Whistler

2009-10-11T19:33:00.009+01:00

Whistler is best known as a ski resort, but offers all year round outdoor activity options. In 2010 it will be the venue for many of the Winter Olympics activities. It can be visited in a day from Vancouver. Be warned, this allows little time to experience much of Whistler, but it hardly matters in many respects as the main purpose of the day trip is to take in the scenery. To get more of a feel for what Whistler has to offer as a resort requires a few days.

There are lots of trip options, train, coach, plane or a mixture of the three. I think the train option is s a must for part of the journey. We decided on train and coach. This allowed for stop offs on the way back and meant we could see things we didn’t see on the way to Whistler. There are two classes of travel on the train, the more expensive option means you are in a carriage with larger windows. As the best view is on the open observation deck, the posh seats are in my view not worth the extra money.

The views from the train are of mountains and forest. They offer many photo opportunities. But the highlight of the trip is to take a sea plane ride over the mountains. This is well worth doing as the views are awesome. We got the big sell for the sea plane trip on our way to the train. It was all quite comic. The guide had very long curly hair and he described the trip with such energy and enthusiasm that his hair was flying all over the place. He was good entertainment value, but best enjoyed in small doses. The seaplane he was so enthusiastic about deserved the hard sell.

Vancouver, great beaches and more

2009-10-11T16:59:00.018+01:00

Vancouver has a lot going for it. The setting is gorgeous, beaches, mountains, marinas, a lovely park and well planned high rise developments. It has big city attractions and lots to do, yet is fairly compact. The high rise mid town gives a feel of being in a very large city. Apparently the film industry use Vancouver for lots of shots that are supposedly in New York.

We stayed at The Sutton Place, which is well located in the centre of town. The hotel is well run and has good facilities. The styling okay, but a little fussy and old fashioned.
View from room at Sutton Place

Marina

There are a few surprises for the visitor. Sales of alcohol are strictly regulated and heavily taxed. It can only be sold in designated shops, so it isn’t a case of popping into the supermarket and getting a bottle. In fact there was a wine store next to our hotel, but it was noticeable that to buy alcohol in general, you had to make an effort. In conversation with a wine merchant, I discovered the taxation of alcohol is a major reason why Canada manages to have low taxation on income, but to fund socialised healthcare.

The other surprise was a very visible drugs problem in Eastside. What is so striking is the concentration of people in this part of town who live on the streets. The city has a strategy in place to tackle its drugs problem, but judging by what we saw, it has some way to go.

If you can ride a bike, then it is well worth hiring one form one from of the cycle hire companies near Stanley Park. The park has a cycle path round its perimeter, much of which is by the seawall. It is an easy route and is fairly flat, so the views are more likely to take you breath than the cylcling.

Capilano Suspension Bridge is a little out of town, but easy to get to. It is a good option for people with children, but felt a bit tame and like a theme park. Genuine outdoorsy type and adrenaline junkies would probably be disappointed by this attraction.

Food and drinks are strong themes on Granville Island. It has a brewery and impressive food market. It’s an easy walk from the city centre. The food highlight of the Vancouver was a meal at Le Crocodile, which is downtown. The food has a strong Alsation influence and the service is good, if a little formal. I got a disapproving look from the wine waiter for getting my emphasis wrong when I ordered a bottle of Nuit St Georges. It is the last place you’d expect to leave without paying, but that is just what we did. The waiter was given a cash tip and card, but forgot to swipe the card. They’d lightened up a little by this point and we were so busy discussing the origins of the restaurant, the fabulous food and the excellent choice of art on the walls, that no one realised. We did realised later and the bill was paid the following morning.

The beach scene in Vancouver is outstanding and the visitor is spoilt for choice because there are beaches in all directions. Kitsilano (also referred to as Kits) is a little away from the centre in a residential part of Vancouver. Tree trunks are scattered across the beach to rest against, there is a shower as you leave the beach and a couple of places to eat. A short walk away there are a range of neighbourhood shops and more restaurant options. This is an interesting option if you want to get a bit of a feel for what the city is like away from the main tourist spots. Closer to the city, in fact just a 20 minute walk from downtown, is English Bay Beach and Sunset Beach. This is a great spot for an afternoon because there are lots of places to eat and drink just across from the beach. There are sometimes street entertainers in this area, which makes for a lively atmosphere. We were lucky to catch a memorable sunset from here, long after the sun had gone the orange red glow lit up the sky.

View from Stanley Park seawall

Secluded beach, Stanley Park

Unusual building overlooking English Bay Beach

A memorable sunset from English Bay Beach

Seattle - liveable and beautiful

2009-10-06T23:30:00.016+01:00

It isn’t hard to see why Seattle is regarded as one of America’s most liveable cities. After being there for a very short time I thought to myself, I could easily live here. It has a wide range of restaurants, bars, varied cultural attractions, is safe and reasonably easy to find your way around. It is surrounded by Eliot Bay, Puget Sound, Lake Washington and Lake Union and is close to Mount Rainier and the Olympic Mountain Range. On the downside it rains a lot. The people seem to take great pride in where they live, but not in a boastful way, they are laid back and easy. What seems to be the prevailing attitude was summed by the response from the hotel concierge to an inquiry about dress codes in restaurants. The response, “Don’t worry, this is the West Coast”.

The smart Sheraton with its twin towers was a great place to relax in comfort and style. Some people would find it all a bit impersonal, but we really liked it. We were on the 22nd floor; the room was well appointed and had some nice personal touches such as Dale Chihuly prints on the wall. The location in the centre of town was excellent. The only drawback was the pool and Jacuzzi were undergoing maintenance.

If I had to chose one thing that made me feel like I could live in Seattle it was the abundance of fantastic food shops. Market Place lives up to its’ name, you name the food and you can be sure you’ll be spoilt for choice by a stall selling it, in this part of town. It made me want to do a big food shop and go home and cook.

It was some consolation that the restaurant scene was so good. The first night was a Pan Asian fusion adventure. When restaurants present themselves as doing fusion food I'm very weary, fearing the ego of the chef is way ahead of their talent and that they’ll create something which is daft and tasteless. Not the case at Ginger Spice, where the food was good quality and well executed. All the meals in Seattle were good, but this was the best.

The most famous building in Seattle must be the Space Needle. It is inevitably very touristy, but worth going up there and watching the sunset. A less well know building, but one that is worth a visit is the Smith Tower. You get good views from the top of here too, but if nothing else go into the foyer and admire the grand marble entrance. Look out for the brass post box, it is linked to and gathers mail from all the 35 floors of the building. It was a little sad to see that not all grand old buildings had been maintained. The main railway station’s once great architectural features are in need of loving renovation and largely hidden behind boards.

Bainbridge Island is a commuter Island, which is an easy ferry trip. It offers a good way to spend a few hours, but isn’t Seattle’s Sausalito (see earlier post).

Some parts of Seattle have beaches and you can still enjoy the waterside views in the areas with no beaches at a cafe or public areas such as the Sculpture Park.

This part of the world isn’t known for its wine, but that is because they don’t produce it in big enough qualities. What a pity that is, because it is really rather good.

In just a few days one can only do a few things. There are enough things which weren’t included and enough onward destinations to make Seattle a city which deserves to be on the list of places to visit again.

From San Francisco to Seattle in Chugga Boom

2009-10-04T17:58:00.017+01:00

Getting out of San Francisco

The coastal route from San Francisco to Seattle is a drive of just over 900 miles. It offers a diverse range of towns, spectacular scenery and a chance to taste a slice of small town America. Although there are plenty of opportunities to enjoy the coast, much of the road is slightly inland, so it isn’t a case of driving along and having a view of the ocean the whole time. The most difficult bit of the trip is getting out of San Francisco. I drew the short straw and was the designated driver for that part of the trip. My first time driving an automatic and an unfamiliar city was a combination I found somewhat challenging and I did worse than a nervous learner driver on a bad day. Driving across Golden Gate Bridge was a relief and my driving improved.

The car was a Chrysler PT Cruiser. I have always thought they look like a cross between a London Taxi and Chugga Boom (the car driven by the Ant Hill Mob in the cartoon series Whacky Races). The car served its purpose, but I wouldn’t want to drive one of these strange vehicles on a regular basis.

We broke the trip down into five legs. This allowed us to take several short stop-offs on the way to each over night destination and arrive at them in the late afternoon to early evening. There were certain attractions that we didn’t have the time to fully appreciate, such as the coastal wilderness of Point Reyes National Seashore or the redwood forests. Enjoying the hiking and photography opportunities required a couple of extra days that we did not have.

The north California coast
The prettiest village of the whole trip was Elk, it has a population of a couple of hundred people. The village is dotted with clapper board houses which have picket fences and the main street has a lovely old church. Take the cars away and it could be a village from a century earlier. Mendocino is just as pretty, but larger with more facilities. It has an arty independent feel to it and apparently is home to some artists and writers. Both Mendocino and Elk are built on cliffs which provide good views of the ocean and they have accommodation options for the tourist.

Our first overnight stop was something of a contrast to Elk and Mendocino. Fort Bragg wasn’t arty or particularly pretty and in places felt a bit more like wild west, than west coast. On the edges of the town there are a series of drive-ins, motels and supermarkets. We opted for a standard motel. We did a bit of exploring and soon got talking to the friendly locals, but there wasn’t much doing, so we decided to eat at a diner attached to the motel, called TWs. We didn’t have high expectations, just to get some basic food in clean surroundings. TWs failed even to meet the low standards we had set. The place needed a deep clean. The most off putting thing was the staff uniforms which were covered in dried-on food. Looking back on it we must have been hungry and tired to have eaten there.
A typical seascape view

Mendocino

Fort Bragg

From California to Oregon

North of Fort Bragg is the tiny village of Westport, it has a small motel which gets some good reviews. There is nothing there really, but I understand it is a great place to have a sunset picnic on the beach. Another option for a place to spend the night in this area, is the Howard Creek Ranch Inn. This place looks full of character and charm, but has varied reviews. Reading between the lines of the reviews, I think it is a case of going with realistic expectations.

Beyond Westport the scenery is a combination of redwoods and seascapes. The beaches on this stretch of the coast are spectacular and have lots of rocky outcrops. Many of the towns on the immediate route lack charm and are ugly, but one town that is worth spending some time in is Eureka. We made the right choice in choosing Brookings as the next overnight stop. I’d recommend the Best Western Beachfront Inn. As the name suggests it overlooks the ocean. It is just across from a decent restaurant called the Smugglers Cove and short walk from a pretty harbour.

The Oregon coast

Driving north from Brookings there is a good stretch where you have a view of the ocean as you are driving along. The beaches are good to walk on and have lots of interesting rock formations. Bandon is a small seaside town which offers a good lunch stop. There is a choice of places to eat. We opted for fish and chips at a tiny little kiosk, which was doing a roaring trade. The owner periodically popped her head out of the window to see if people were enjoying their lunch.

Further north the coast changes totally and there are vast windswept sand dunes. The road comes inland a little on this stretch of the highway and it isn’t possible to see the dunes as you are driving along. Eel Creek is a good stop to experience the dunes. The sea is miles away and we were the only people on the dunes, had it not been for the nearby forres it would have felt like being in the middle of the desert. Walking around is hard work because of the very soft sand, the wind and the steep dunes. Well worth the effort though and quite surreal.

Our next overnight stop was Florence which is one of the larger towns along this part of the coast. It has lots of historic buildings and good range of shops. It was a good option for an overnight stay. North of here there are plenty of places to stop off and enjoy a happy hour or two. Yachats is a tiny coastal village which has a pleasant sleepy feel about it. Newport is a larger town, which we would have stopped at if we’d had more time. We made the mistake of stopping at Seal Rock, which is a pile of tourist nonsense. We didn't see many seals, but did see lots of tacky souvenirs. Rockaway beach made for a good rest stop with its long white sand beaches.

Me on the windswepts sand dunes

Rockaway Beach

A night in Astoria
The final overnight stop before Seattle was Astoria. We stayed at the Holiday Inn and were delighted with the size of the room and the view. The town has a new development by the waterfront front and we had a satisfying meal at a recently opened wine bar and restaurant. In conversation with the waiter we found out that he was soon to visit London so gave him some bar and restaurant recommendations. On the way back we went to a local bar. On walking in it was obvious this wasn’t a regular haunt for tourists, but we were not made to feel out of place. A guy came over to us and to our amusement said “Gee you two stick out like two sore thumbs, where are you from?” We engaged in conversation and he insisted on buying us a drink. He seemed pleased that we had done what most tourists don’t do and go into a local bar. It was a fitting end to our last night in a small west coast town. The following morning we were on our way back to a big city, Seattle.

San Francisco sunset

2009-10-01T23:34:00.008+01:00

I love to watch the sunset, even if it's only from the back garden. A sunset in a far away place is all the better, add the backdrop of the Golden Gate Bridge and it's perfect. These pictures were taken from Municipal Pier, which is close to Fiserman's Wharf. It's a great spot for seeing the bridge at sunset. You get a good perspective and don't have to battle with huge crowds for that all important vantage point.

Wonderful Sausalito

2009-10-01T21:56:00.017+01:00

Sausalito is easy to get to from San Francisco. You can drive over the Golden Gate Bridge or take a short ferry ride from the Ferry Building or Fisherman's Wharf. Driving in San Francisco isn't much fun for the tourist (see a later post), but a ferry ride is relaxing and you get great views of the San Francisco skyline. The Ferry Building is the best departure point. Fisherman's Wharf has lots of souvenir shops and mediocre restaurants which are overrun with tourists. The Ferry Building on the other hand has a range of interesting shops, a good range of restaurants and is worth seeing in its own right.

In the 1960s Sausalito was something of a hippy and bohemian enclave and many people lived in houseboats. The houseboats are still there, but very wealthy residents have taken over. It is hard to imagine anyone but the well heeled, being able to buy anything in Sausalito today, even a houseboat. It is sad that many ordinary people have been priced out, but fortunately the arty alternative feel to the place has remained.

It would be easy to spend a few days in Sausalito as well as, or instead of the city. The views of the San Francisco skyline are great, there are good range of quality restaurants and a choice of places to stay. The Inn Above the Tide is a small hotel, which as the name suggests is right on the waters edge. Unfortunately it isn't possible for non residents to go in for a drink.

The wealth of the town is obvious, not just by the property, but the size of some of the yachts in the marina.

A couple of hours is enough to get a taste of this lovely place, staying for a night or two would be even better. It is the top of my list of what to do while in San Francisco.

In Search of Blossom Hill

2009-09-26T18:38:00.006+01:00

Discovering the Napa and Senoma regions on a wine tasting tour is an easy day trip from San Francisco.

Tourists have a range of options including a wine train trip, large coach tours, private tours in a limo and small group tours. The large coach trips sound horrendous. Sixty people on a coach visiting a limited range of vineyards and getting sloshed on Californian plonk. Not my idea of a good day out. The private trip in a limo seems an odd way to do a wine tasting trip. The train option didn’t really appeal either, it offers the opportunity to see lots from the train, but the chance to experience where you are visiting is limited.

To my mind the small group tour offers by far the best option, allowing interaction with other tourists, the guide and offering an opportunity to influence the vineyards visited. Choose the right trip and you can also include a gourmet meal. We were lucky to have a foodie couple on the trip, restaurateurs from Canada. They were fans of Gordon Ramsey. I sang the praises of Nigel Slater and made some book recommendations to them.

The vineyard which we will remember most was Arger-Martucci. The wine was good, but what really made it was the host. If you were to invent someone to do this sort of job, you’d be hard pressed to do better than this guy. He had a sardonic disarming wit and described each of the six wines he served with enthusiasm and knowledge. He also served the most delicious olive bread to go with the wine.
http://www.arger-martucci.com/arger-martucci/index.jsp

As well as including visits to several vineyards, the trip we chose included lunch at The Brix in the Napa Valley. This was without doubt the food highlight of the whole holiday. The Brix is in an idyllic setting, the service is attentive without being oppressive and the food sublime. Surprisingly the usually reliable Trip Advisor has mixed reviews about this place.
http://www.brix.com/

We were amused that no one we spoke to knew about Blossom Hill, a characterless Californian blend which is ubiquitous in the UK. Our guide said that lots of people from the UK mentioned this wine, but he hadn’t got a clue where it came from. I guess it is the leftovers from various vineyards, blended together by the guiding principle of not offending anyone’s taste buds and sold to UK pub chains and supermarkets.

The Napa and Senoma lack the dramatic beauty of somewhere like Paarl and Stellenbosch in South Africa, but this was a great way to spend a day enjoying a tipple, some great food and meeting some interesting people. We used Extranomical Tours and I recommend them to others.
http://www.extranomical.com/HTML_PAGES/WINE_COUNTRY_LOVERS_ITINERARY.htm

The Royalty of Jazz are at the Rrazz

2009-09-22T21:04:00.008+01:00

I get regular emails from the Rrazz Room, a jazz venue in Hotel Nikko on Mason Street, San Francisco (just a few blocks from Union Square).
I see that Cleo Laine and John Dankworth are performing there for the next few days. It was a great pleasure to see them at the same venue last year. The years have done nothing to curb their enthusiasm and enjoyment of performing.
The most memorable song was of all things 'Tea for Two'. As a general rule, I really dislike this song, but Cleo made it sound good.
The Rrazz Room isn't my favourite jazz venue and is somewhat lacking in atmosphere, but this pair of octogenarians liven up anywhere.

What future for Blackpool?

2009-09-20T19:47:00.006+01:00

Blackpool is a bit like marmite, you either love it or hate it. In my early childhood we went to various coastal resorts in England. I have happy memories of Scarborough and Margate. One year we went to Blackpool. I insisted because I saw it as the iconic seaside resort. I remember the rain, not been allowed on some of the rides at the theme park (too dangerous and they would make me sick) and the Tower.

Times change and in my later childhood we went to Greece or Spain. In recent years Blackpool has become a place to go for a short break, a day out or a conference. I was last there for an afternoon and went on 'The Big One', a roller coaster ride. I was terrified, but determined to finally go on one of those rides that were out of bounds to me as a child. It was good fun. My brother takes his daugthers for short breaks sometimes and they love it.

In some respects Blackpool is great, but in too many respects it isn't. I have felt a great sense of nostalgia when visiting as an adult. There lies the problem because it just hasn't changed with the times. Recently Pontins announced they were closing, because of plummeting numbers.

In recent years the conference trade has provided some revenue, but now even that seems to be going. In any given year the Tories, Labour, the Lib Dems or the TUC provided some trade. Not this year. The conference season has begun with the TUC in Liverpool, the Lib Dems are off to Bournemouth, Labour to Brighton and the Tories are in Manchester.

Northern towns are now the destination of choice for big conferences in the north rather than Blackpool.

The Super Casino idea seemed to offer possible saviour, but that doesn't seem to be on the agenda any more.

The only trade left seems to be stag parties, birthday parties and short breaks.

I have never stayed in really good accomodation in Blackpool and some has been appaling, so it isn't hard to see why it is in decline. It is a shame though, that this once great playground can't keep the best of what it once had and that it hasn't devoloped to meet the needs and aspirations of modern travellers.

A walk around Pacific Heights

2009-09-19T10:46:00.013+01:00

Pacific Heights is home to some of the wealthiest people in San Francisco. At the lower end of the market there are homes costing a few million dollars, at the uppper end you're talking many tens of million dollars. Residents include wealthy business people, lawyers and celebrities.

It is interesting to walk around, look at the homes, enjoy the public parks and take in the views of the ocean.

Some streets in the area are enclaves for the mega mega rich, but the area is more varied than its image suggests and it does include some more 'modest' homes. 'Modest' needs heavy qualification and means the merely large rather than palatial.

As we walked along we were amused to be asked the way by someone. We wondered whether we looked like millionaires or domestics?

It is possible to go through the area on a tour bus, but it is limited to a certain route. Do it on foot it is much more fun.

Premium flying at reduced prices: well sometimes

2009-09-18T01:33:00.017+01:00

Up until recently I was feeling very pleased with my record of flying in the comfy seats at less than many fellow passengers were paying.

In the space of a few years I have become known as Mr Upgrade to some of my friends.

First there was an upgrade from premium economy to business class on a flight with Virgin. This came out of the blue, no pressuring the nice woman (she was a woman) on the desk about availability up at the front, it was just offerred.

Then came the best and most memorable upgrade, from business to first with South African Airways. It was all the more enjoyable because we nearly missed the flight altogether. Our lateness had caused a mix up on a very busy flight and we arrived at our allocated seats to find someone sitting in them. It was a young couple who were very much in love (and making it obvious to everyone's annoyance). They were offered an upgrade to first class if they moved, but told they would not be able to sit right next to each other. Just as I was thinking why didn't you ask us, they declined, because they could't bear to disintagle themselves from oneanother. We were asked the same question and we calmy replied that we would accept. I wanted to cartwheel all the way to first class and this was before the copious amounts of champagne.

Last year there was a price war between Virgin and BA. I got a third off the price of a normal ticket. I was able to do this because I had noticed that periodically airlines have sales drive and drastically reduce prices for a limited period and kept a look out.

The next big trip is to South Africa and Zambia with a friend. We decided to book the time off work and wait for a sale. The sale came a few weeks ago. Not quite as good as we would have liked, but we booked. A few days later the sale improved. Arrrrrgh. So annoying.

The lesson is be as flexible as you can about when you travel and keep watching those prices. By doing this it is possible to have a reasonably good understanding of how low prices can fall for your chosen route and come to a judgement about whther it is a good time to buy your ticket. I knew tickets were likely to come down further, but we were keen to book.

Part of me says put this occasion into context, the other that I really should have known better.

China Town, San Francisco - Best enjoyed with Linda Lee

2009-09-17T22:00:00.031+01:00

Many cities across the world have a China Town. San Francisco has one of the larger ones, it can be easily explored and is safe, but it is much more instructive with a good guide.

We were lucky to have Linda Lee, a Chinese American who really understands the Chinese community and China Town. She runs a tour called 'All About China Town', meets you at a prominant point and takes you on a walking tour in a small group. She runs trips for tourists and school groups.

Her experience of dealing with silly children was an asset. One of the people in our group had a short attention span and was showing off by trying to make smart comments at Linda's expense. The deftness with which she dealt with him was a joy to behold and almost worth the price of the tour in itself.

On the tour you see where many people in the Chinese community learn, worship, meet, shop and live. You learn about the history of the Chinese people in San Francisco and how they live today. The tour is authentic and gives as good a feel for the 'real China Town', as is realistic to expect on a short trip.

Some may find certain parts of the trip too authentic. The visit to the fresh food store, selling live frogs, fish and poultry was an eye-opener and definately not something for the faint-hearted. But you get plenty of warning and and can of course opt out of this particular option.

A food shop everyone will enjoy seeing is the fortune cookie factory. I'd always wondered how they got the message inside the batter and now I know because I have seen it done. Nimble fingers and manual dexterity are a plus. Not sure about the hygiene standards though.

A delicious way to end the trip is to enjoy some Dim Sum. Follow Linda's recommendation and you won't go wrong.

You can find out more about the trip on http://www.allaboutchinatown.com/

The Horta Museum, Brussels - You really ought to go

2009-09-17T20:15:00.014+01:00

Victor Horta (1861-1945) was the foremost Art Nouveau architect in Belgium in the early part of the twentieth century. The Horta Museum was his home and studio from about 1900 to 1915 and is a wonderful showcase of his vision and ingenuity.

The house is on grand, rather than stately proportions. The centrepiece is a magnificant staircase which has a breathtaking sinuous brass work. At the top of the stairs a glazed ceiling allows in just the right amount of light.

The attention to detail everywhere is amazing, even down to door knobs and switches. Everything is beautiful and even the practical parts of the house, like the urinal in the first floor bedroom, are a design feature.

The house is a bit off the beaten track. The staff are unfriendly and make you feel as though they are doing you a favour by letting you visit. Oh and there is a strictly enforced no photography rule. These annoyances detract from a visit rather than ruin it though. This place is a must for lovers of Art Nouveau and should be a high priority for anyone with an interest in design, architecture or historic buildings.

The website doesn't do the place justice http://www.hortamuseum.be/main.php?lang=en&part=musee&page=informations

I'd add some pictures, but the website says no and (having met the guides) I would't dare defy the custodians of this great house.

In praise of Kyle Shepherd

2009-09-05T18:18:00.002+01:00

Kyle Shepherd is a young South African jazz pianist from Cape Town. I love his brand of South African Jazz and I think he is hugely talented.

http://www.kyleshepherd.co.za/

He produced his first CD, ‘fineART’ (not a typo) at the beginning of 2009 and the more I listen to it the more I like it. I took the CD round to some friends recently when they cooked me dinner. One of them is a real music buff (some would say music snob) and he was really impressed, which is high praise indeed.

Most of Kyle Shepherd’s concerts have been in South Africa, but he has done a few in Europe as well. I notice he is due to play in Ghent and Amsterdam later this month. Pity he isn’t doing the UK as well.

The good news is that a new album ‘A Portrait of Home’ is due at the end of the year.

Check him out on his web site

A few days in London

2009-09-04T22:15:00.003+01:00

I am back in Sheffield after a few days in London, where I have been catching up with friends and family.

The 8.27 train from Sheffield to London on Friday was fairly empty, which is always a good start. I stayed close to St James’ Park. Before seeing anyone I did a bit of clothes shopping on Kings Road then wandered along to Hyde Park where I enjoyed a glass of wine in the Serpentine Bar. Nice relaxed atmosphere and mixture of Londoners and tourists. Shame about the nasty weather (I got rained on while walking along Eaton Square), but at least the sunset in Hyde Park was pleasing. It was amusing to see some members of staff clicking away while I was taking my own pictures. Maybe they are foreign students. More rain as I leave Victoria Station. Dinner was Jugged Hare Pie at the Jugged Hare on Vauxhall Bridge Road, one of my favourite pubs for food in London. Nothing fancy, but always very good. The pub was once a bank and combines a vague air of grandeur with a laid back feel. The clientele is a real mix of people, occasional and regular visitors, tourists with a sense of adventure, and in the early evening, some civil servants from the Home Office and Ministry of Justice.

The first part of Saturday I went over to Leigh-on Sea to share happy memories of a dear friend with her parents and brother. We had some lunch and visited her grave. It is desperately sad that she died so young and her absence will always leave a gap. On a happier note I meet some friends in Brentwood. We had a short walk in a nearby park and later go for a Chinese meal. Back to central London feeling quite tired.

On Sunday I visit my friend Stewart and his partner Lydia. They have a brand new flat near Richmond, very stylish. We popped into Kingston and then went to central London. After taking in an Indian art exhibition at the British Museum, we decided it was time for a drink. The Bedford and Strand was our intended haunt, but it is closed for refurbishment. We find somewhere else nearby and then decide to go to Kuttners, a retro Champagne Bar on Romily Street. It feels as though we have stepped back at least three decades with the decor and furniture. Even the champagne glasses were those wide short glasses which no one uses any more, fine for serving ice cream in, but not ideal for Champagne. That said I like the bar because it is unusual and would go back. We were in need of food so went into a Thai place we found on Charing Cross Road. Just okay. Time was unkind to us and Lydia and Stewart had to rush off to catch the last train.

Monday was time with the family, my older brother his wife, his oldest and pregnant daughter and her husband. I met them at Waterloo and we walked to the London Eye to collect some tickets we had ordered. We took lots of pictures on the South Bank and looked every bit tourists (are we?). The promised sunshine comes out before we board the London Eye. Great views of the City, Canary Wharf and of course the Houses of Parliament. We spent the rest of the day enjoying three of London’s Parks. We had a picnic in St James’ Park. I love the views from the bridge, the Palace in one direction and Whitehall in the other. After lunch we walked to the Palace then to Green Park. There are some fabulous buildings overlooking the park, but also some extremely ugly developments. It would never have been allowed in Paris. Our day ended in Hyde Park. The weather was fabulous and the day even better. We shared stories from the past, teased one another and took sheer enjoyment from just being together.